Peyote Stitch Bail - Step By Step Tutorial (Make a Beaded Connector for Adding a Pendant to a Kumihimo Cord)

How to connect beaded kumihimo braids to a pendant is a challenge. After sourcing these new borosilicate glass Nebula Ring Tag Pendants with dichroic chips and gold dust inside, I found that the best solution was to imitate the beaded peyote stitch sleeve or cover over the clasp already part of the design. So before we start, let me reminisce. 

Peyote Stitch was not on my list of beading techniques to learn until I had a problem with magnetic clasps that preferred to attach themselves to metal table legs or armrests. This was solved by the addition of a Beaded Peyote Stitch Sleeve over the clasp preventing the magnetic clasp from sliding off sideways. As a bonus, the beaded sleeve added an aesthetic dimension to the design. This was 11 years ago... For more info check this post.

Making a bail, a connector, or a loop is always a challenge. In this instance, the loop needs to be continuous and permanently attached to the pendant. It cannot be pre-made and then installed; it needs to be finished around the hole in the ring tag pendant. The kumihimo cord can slip in as long as the bail is long enough. 

Here is what you will need to begin:

• ~1 g (1/8 tsp) of Miyuki Delicas 11/0
  
• 1.5 yd (1.4 m) of Beading Thread (my preference is the one with the closest color to the beads)
• Beeswax
• 2 Tapestry Needles Size 28 (with blunt ends)
• 1 or 2 Bead Embroidery Needles Size 10 or 12 (with blunt ends)
• Mini-Clip or Mini-Clamp

Step By Step Tutorial

Make a Peyote Stitch Rectangle, 6 beads wide by 31 beads long. Check for size; if the fit it well, zip it into a loop around the Nebula Ring Tag pendant hole. 

Step 1 - Cut the thread. If you using C-lon or KO Bead Thread, coat it with beeswax, especially the ends. Attach both ends to the Tapestry Needles Size 28. You can use an extra fine needle threader to do so.

Step 2 - Use the 2-needle start method: 

1. *Load the first 2 beads, one on each needle, then slide the beads to the middle of the thread. 
2. Load 1 bead on both needles, but do it one at a time.* 
3. Repeat from * to * 2 more times until you have 6 beads across. 

Note: For #2, I pass the first needle through the bead, then hold the bead right past the needle against my left index finger with the needle in between my left index and my middle finger, then I pass the second needle through the bead. This way the first thread is taut, and there is no risk of piercing it with the second needle. If you use the thinner needles, bead embroidery needles Size 10 & 12, you can insert both needles at once. However, the tapestry needle size 28 eyes are larger, making them easier to thread; plus the needles are much stronger and they do not get bent or broken as easily as the thinner needles. 

For more complete images of the process: –> Post on 2 Needle Start

How to count beads across and rows: Now, you have 6 beads across and 2 beads on the left side and 1 on the right side. The 6 beads across is the way you count the width. The side beads are the way you count the rows. With the next thread pass, you will add a bead on the right side, so there will be 2 beads on each side. You do not count rows by the number of thread passes. 

Step 3 - Clip one of the thread (the shorter one) with a mini-clamp. It will hold the thread tension. With the other needle (and thread), add Bead 1 and insert the needle into the first protruding bead. 

Note: In even-count peyote with 6 beads across, each thread pass add 3 beads (or half the amount of beads across). Two passes add 6 beads and a full row. 

Bead 2 and 3 will be added in between the protruding beads from the previous pass. 

  

Step 4 - Reverse direction for the next pass and add Bead 4, 5 and 6. 

Step 5. Continue adding more beads until you have 31 beads on each side. 

Note: The threads are coming out of opposite sides and the indentations and protrusions at the ends fit into one another. If the thread is coming out of the same side and the ends are exactly the same, either add or remove one pass. 

Step 6. With the thread on each side reinforce the sides for stability and strength. This step is best done with the finer bead embroidery needles size 10 and 12. 

1. Go through the edge bead one row up from the bead with the thread.
2. Go through the next lower bead.
3. Turn direction and go through the bead on row up. 
4. Go through the next lower edge bead. That's the same edge bead as in #1.
5. Repeat 1-4 for every edge bead. Hold off at the last bead.
6. Repeat 1-5 for the other side.
7. Reinforce the last rows by running the thread to the other side so both threads come out of the last bead as shown in Step 5. 

Step 7. Check for fit. Add or remove rows as needed. 

 

 Step 8. Zip both end together. See image below for close-up. 

Go through the protruding beads one at a time. Pull tight and reinforce the joint by a few more passes. Then go around in a circle a few times to secure the thread ends. 

 Step 8. Cut the thread ends at the bead hole or melt the ends with a thread burner making sure not to melt the other thread. If you have never done it before test it on a space piece of peyote stitch. 

The End. The bail is all done. Congratulations!  

For the Peyote Sleeve, the clasp cover, make a rectangular piece 20 beads across with 18 rows of beads, and zipped it closed. Slip it over the magnetic clasp and stitch it to the side of the braid so it won't fall out when the clasp is opened up. 

The combination is a really nice addition, making it worthwhile to learn peyote stitching. Here are the combinations I have made so far: 

El Dorado

Midnight Scarab

Place Vendome

Other Peyote Stitch Tutorials
Even-Count Peyote Sleeves with Delicas Size 11
Even-Count Peyote Sleeves with Seed Beads Size 11
Odd-Count Peyote Sleeves with Delicas Size 10 & Seed Beads Size 11
2 Needle Start - An Alternative Method to Start Peyote
2 Needle Method for Odd-Count Peyote
The FAST Peyote Method - An Alternative Peyote Stitch Method

Get Kits, Materials & Tools
Kumihimo Necklace Kits - in this post
Nebula Ring Tags - Pendants shown in this post

Related Posts
Thread Burners Review

Kumihimo Bracelet with PIP Bead - Compare Kumihimo with Bead Weaving and Bead Crochet Techniques

When you look at these pieces, they simply look like beaded bracelets. Which actual technique was used to make them is not so obvious nor important when you wear them. They could have been made using a bead weaving technique, tubular bead crochet, or a fiber technique known as kumihimo taken over by beaders and fiber artist who like beads. Kumi means braided, Himo, cord in Japanese. The braiding technique using tools such as wood stand (Maru Dai) or a disk or board was developed tin Japan. With beads, kumihimo is now known as Bead Kumihimo or Beaded Kumihimo. 

What's the difference between these techniques? The process.

Bead Weaving requires multiple passes through the beads and working with a needle. Each bead is stitching one at a time to the finished piece. The thread takes multiple pass through the bead, plus it has to fit into a needle, so it needs to be thin. Thin also means not as strong... but, hey, this technique has many fans. 

Interested in bead weaving techniques and thread? If so start HERE. The links takes you to a series of posts on Peyote Stitch, one of the most popular beading technique and a good place to start. 

Tubular Bead Crochet requires a crochet hook and good eyes. Catching the thread in the middle of the beads can be annoying after a while, but the work is highly portable, once the beads are loaded onto ONE cord, the crochet process begins.

Interested in Tubular Bead Crochet? If so, get this tool and tutorial. I would never have been able to get over the start of the crochet tube without them.  

Bead Kumihimo requires a few tools, but $12 will get you everything you need in a nice bag so you can take your project around. The beads get loaded up to 8 cords. Self needles or needles can be used to this process. The braiding process is easy to learn, it requires moving the cord from one place to another. And if you doing bead kumihimo dropping a bead at the same time. Period.

Basic 8 Stand Round Braid Kumihimo with or without beads does not require amazing skills. Anybody can learn. I do it watching TV, listening to conversations, and while doing demos and explaining the process. 

Oh, one more comparison, the cord size for Tubular Bead Crochet and Kumihimo is usually the same, thick enough to hold well, and thin enough for the beads to slide down easily. 

For more info on these bracelets - go to my previous post or go to Kumihimo Bracelets with Pip Bead Kits.

Leave comments if you have any questions! - Marion

Loading Beads onto Cord & Thread - Needle Types & Sizes, Thread Leader and Self Needles

I wrote a post quite a while ago on the best way to load beads onto cords. It is one of the most common questions I get. It is a lot easier to refer to a post than to answer everyone individually. It was also time to update the info with lots of visual aids. This info is crucial to so many techniques from Peyote Stitch, Bead Kumihimo, Micro Macrame, and just Stringing Beads or Making Malas.

Needles

From left to right:

Big Eye Needles - Super easy to use as the needle opens fully from tip to tip. The needle consists of two long needles soldered together at each end, so when you separate them, in the middle the needle eye is giant. On the negative side, the needle is fairly thick so it cannot go though many beads as their holes are too thin, plus it can snag fragile material such as monocords (C-Lon Bead Thread, Size D and AA, KO and Miyuki Beading Thread) or fragile ribbon such as the knitted Panaché ribbon. Occasionally the solder joint breaks, so have an extra on hand just in case.

Wire Needles with Collapsible Eyes - Such as the Griffin Needles. They come in three sizes, thin, medium, and heavy. They are a good choice for stringing lots of beads, and since the eye collapses, the needle does not take a lot of room, so it is possible to get a double cord or thread into a small bead hole. But as the eye collapses, most of the time the needles are not reusable. On the plus side, the packages have 25 needles. 

Tapestry Needles - They come in many sizes from Size 20 (the thickest) to Size 28 (the thinnest) and they all have blunt ends. Chenille Needles are similar to Tapestry Needles but have sharp ends. 

I try to use blunt ends always for loading beads onto cord and thread. I am less likely to poke myself and to get my project ruined by staining it with blood. Also if you are making multiple passes, blunt ends are best for lowering the likelihood of going through the thread of the previous passes. 

Bead Embroidery Needles - These beading needles in size 10 and 12 are similar to Beading Needles, but they are shorter, plus they have blunt ends. These are pluses all around for leather wrap bracelet, Peyote Stitch, and very fine thread. 

Guide for Needle Sizes

This is a general guide as to the best needle type and sizes for some common thread and cord used for beaded jewelry. It also give an indication as to the best needle size for finishing. 

I often use the next size down for finishing and a pair of pliers to pull the needle and cord through when finishing in micro macrame. I can squeeze a C-Lon Bead Cord in a Tapestry Size 24, thus making a smaller hole in my work, but the end of the cord that went through the needle will not be usable, it will have to be discarded. 

Pull Along Needle and Thread Leader Method

If the beads holes are too small to accommodate the cords and needles listed above, then a smaller pull along needle with a thread leader might be the best way. 

In this example, the 4mm hematite with an Aurora Borealis finish are loaded onto C-Lon Bead Cord. The bead holes barely accommodate the cord doubled over, so a big eye needle or a tapestry needle will not work. A collapsible wire needle might work, but it might damage the looped part of the cord. So this might be the best solution. The needle is a Tapestry Needle Size 26. The thread leader is a piece of C-Lon Micro Cord. A thinner needle and thread could be used such as a Bead Embroidery Needle and C-Lon Bead Thread Size D or KO/Miyuki Thread. 

If tying a knot does not work because the knot keeps the beads from sliding down, as I found out in my example, either choose a thinner thread or omit the knot as shown below. 

Self Needles

 Self Needles can be made with Fray Check or Beeswax. 

The advantage for self needles is that there is no need to double the cord over to insert it into the bead holes. It can be done with a single cord or thread which is less bulky. Thus it allows a thicker cord into a bead hole.


Self Needle with Fray Check - Dip or rub some Fray Check onto the end of the cord. Let it dry. Cut the cord at an angle and use it as a needle. Re-cut at needed. 

Fray Check acts like a glue and coats the cord adding a bit of bulk to the cord. Making the self needle with beeswax (shown next) is the best way for loading beads onto cords when the size of the cord is close to the bead hole.  

Self Needle with Beeswax Method

This method is shown here with C-Lon Bead Cord Tex 400 as it is easier to photograph than thinner cords, but I use this method for the standard C-Lon Bead Cord or Nylon #18 bonded nylon cord and thinner bonded nylons,  for silks such as the Kanagawa or Fujix Tire Silk, and other cord and thread. 

Step 1. With the scissor blade edge shred the cord end. 

This picture shows the shredded material. 

Make sure to shred each of the 3 plies evenly. 

Step 2. Run the wax multiple times over the ends. 

Step 3. Roll the ends counterclockwise and cut the ends at an angle with sharp scissors. Occasionally as you load beads, you might need to re-wax and recut the end. 

The Beeswax Self Needle has many advantages:

• No need to double the cord over unless you want to use two cords, then join them together with the beeswax. The beeswax will hold cords together. 

• No drying time

Note: Not all beeswaxes are equal. If yours is a bit too soft or sticky place it in the refrigerator. It will help making it harder. If yours is too hard, keep it by a warm light.

I like my beeswax on the hard side... and I also often use pliers with this method to pull the cord through a tight hole. But of course sometimes a bead hole is just too narrow. Then the beads can be set aside for another project done with a thinner cord or it can be reamed.  A post about reaming beads will be on my list of next posts, so stay tuned. Follow my blog or sign up for newsletters to hear the latest news or visit my news page.  It has links to all my technical posts at the very bottom. 

In the end it is best to try all the different methods, and find your favorite way for your projects!

Links and References

-> Beeswax, Fray Check

-> Needles

-> Beading Cord & Thread

Beading Thread - Comparing Fireline, Power Pro, WildFire, C-Lon Bead Thread, KO and Miyuki Beading Thread

Choosing beading thread can be complex as each of them has their pluses and minuses, and of course it all depends on the type of beads and the beading technique you are using, as well as what you are making.

Here is a chart and some notes on the best beading thread available. All fit onto beading needles Size 10-12 and can be melted with a thread burner.

Brand Names
KO and Miyuki Beading Thread must be made by the same factory. The thread quality, spools, and colors are exactly the same. The labels are the only differences.

C-Lon and S-Lon or Superlon are also, as far as I know, made in the same factory for different producers. They may have yardage difference in the D size and C-Lon has 3 additional colors of the AA size.  - More in post about C-Lon vs S-Lon


Thread Type & Construction

Nylon Monocord
Nylon was invented to replace silk for silk stocking. It is strong, can be pulled and has a bit of stretch. The original nylon stocking were so strong that they did not need to be replaced… and guess what, over time the quality was lowered on purpose so they would snag and need replacing… Back to nylon, the nylon filaments can be twisted into a 1-ply, 2-ply or 3-ply cord, or braided. C-Lon Bead Cord is a 3-ply bonded nylon. Chinese Knotting Cord is a braided nylon.

For the KO, Miyuki and C-Lon Beading Thread, the filaments are lightly twisted into a 1-ply cord, known as a monocord, not to be confused with monofilament, that's the original fishing line.  In addition to its good abrasion resistance and excellent strength, the monocord has a flat, ribbon-like cross section and it flattens against beads making this type of thread great for doing multi pass through the bead holes. The thread is either waxed as in KO & Miyuki, or lightly bonded in the C-Lon Beading Thread to hold the filaments together. The multifilament monocord was originally designed as a low profile sewing thread.

Dyneema & Spectra
Both are Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthylenes. Dyneema is made by DSM in the Netherlands and Spectra by Honeywell in the USA. UHMWPE, for short, is know for its strength, low stretch and low weight. As a fiber, it is used for fishing lines, parachute cord, sailing lines, personal armor, puncture resistant clothing for fencing and more.

As to the differences between 6 lb. Fireline, 10 lb. WildFire and Power Pro, FireLine and Power Pro are braided whereas WildFire has a monocord thread construction. The 6 lb. Fireline has a thinner fiber braided core and a very thick thermally applied bonding. The bond material coats the fiber core, and the texture of the braid is non existent, whereas Power Pro has some texture, even through the bonded coat.

Thread Size or Diameter
Many beading techniques require multiple passes through the same bead hole, so the thread diameter is very important. The number on the chart represent the official diameters, but here is my list done by touch. The diameters are too thin to measure with a ruler or a caliper.

Thinnest to less thin:

1. KO - Miyuki Beading Thread
2. C-Lon Bead Thread Size AA ~ by just a tad, maybe… 
----------------------------------------
3. C-Lon Bead Thread Size D
----------------------------------------
4. 6 lb. FireLine
5. WildFire 006
6. 10 lb. Power Pro ~ maybe by a tad, or the thread texture might makes the thread feel thicker… 

I separated them in groups to delineate clear diameter size differences. Please note that FireLine, WildFire and Power Pro come in larger sizes, but they are a bit too thick to allow for multiple passes and they become harder to thread on the needles Size 10 or 12. 

Ease of Threading onto a Needle
The thinner thread are easier to thread on a needle. I use beeswax at the end of the nylon thread to keep the filaments from separating. The hardest thread to insert into the needle are the braided ones, as they need to cut nice and clean and threaded immediately before the braid starts separating. PowerPro is the hardest one to thread into the needle, but once in, because of its texture, it stays in place, whereas the other threads, being more slippery, fall off the needle more easily.

Easier to Hardest to Cut 
The nylon threads are easy to cut with sharp scissors. The Dyneema & Spectra thread are hard to cut, with FireLine being the easiest of the three, and PowerPro being the hardest. I tried regular embroidery scissors, wire cutters, and a thread burner, but that left a small bead at the end of the thread. A pair of titanium scissors worked best, especially when holding the thread taut when cutting.

Breaking Strength
See the chart, the thread lines up the following way, from lowest to highest:
4 lb. - 1.81 Kg - KO - Miyuki, C-Lon Bead Thread Size AA
----------------------------------------
6lb. - 2.72 Kg - 6 lb. FireLineC-Lon Bead Thread Size D
----------------------------------------
10 lb. - 4.53 Kg - WildFire 006, 10 lb. Power Pro

Colors and Notes on Thread
I have been told repetitively that with most beading techniques, the thread color does not show, but with peyote for example, the thread shows up on the edges… I can see it!

KO - Miyuki Beading Thread has 18 colors. Some of the colors are perfect. The Gold for example is absolutely perfect for gold seed beads. The Lilac, Denim, Light Grey, and Apricot are fabulous choices… 

The thread is pre-waxed, making it easy to use. It is thin, easy to cut and threads easily onto a needle. The breaking strength is the lowest, but for pieces that are not structuraly under stress and for beads with smooth edges, it is very nice to work with. It flattens against the beads, making multiple passes easy as long as you hold the thread that is already in the beads taut while you insert the needle back in. 

C-Lon Bead Thread Size AA & D come in 39 and 36 colors respectively. Many of the colors are amazing. I love the Light Brown, Purple, Chocolate, Grey, Burgundy, Seafoam, Turquoise & Teal, and it doubles up as a great thread for leather wrap bracelets/ladder bracelets especially in Size D.

Size D has a higher breaking strength and would be my first choice between the two. It functions very much like KO/Miyuki Beading Thread as to ease, especially with a light addition of beeswax. But stay away from low quality wax that is sticky. A good clean hard beeswax is what's needed here. Another thread conditioner option would be a light coat of Fray Block, not Fray Check that is too thick. 

The colors on the nylon beading thread listed above are colorfast, washable, but may bleach with long exposure to sunlight. The Dyneema and Spectra beading thread listed below are basically white and cannot be dyed. The color is added to the bonding material. If you peel the bonded coat, the fiber underneath is white… 

FireLine comes in two colors, Smoke and Crystal. Crystal is white. It seems a bit translucent, but when placed on a dark color, it does not change. Smoke is dark grey. The thread is quite strong, it can be pulled on and it will flatten somewhat against beads, but not as much as the nylon beading thread. FireLine and WildFire are fairly slippery, so watch the thread tension.

WildFire comes in 3 colors: Frost, Black and Camouflage Green. I nicknamed it Camouflage because the green seems to blend with many other colors somehow and it is also a color used in the military and for fishing…. For some strange reason I think I like WildFire better than FireLine, but that may be just this week… 

And last but not least, Power Pro has just 2 colors. It has a few more colors, available in fishing stores, like a bright yellow, blue, red… but none have made it into the beading world yet, so try your local fishing store… This thread is strong and has a bit of a texture, so the needle does not fall off, but it also tends to stay rounder; it does not flatten much. 

Consideration about Beads

The type of bead used is a major consideration. Check your beads, make sure that the bead edges are nice and smooth, or as smooth as possible. I found along the way that some beads are simply not suitable for cord and thread, and maybe not even wire. Some beads are simply not well cut enough to be used in any project. With natural materials such as gemstones, often the difference between an inexpensive strand and a more expensive one is the quality of the bead edges.

With any beads that have a sharper edge, I would stay away from any of the nylon thread, as the sharp edges may abrade the filament one at a time. The heavy bonds on the Spectra and Dyneema thread will hold up better over time.

Structure or Drape?
I have read that drape or structure is based on the thread you use, but I have not found it to be the case. The thread tension is responsible for the drape or tight structure. In peyote stitch, for example, adding extra turns around beads can help hold the thread tension. It takes practice to hold the tension even. So yes, with your first piece, regardless of which thread you use, you may not have total control over the tension, but over time it gets easier.

Other Stress Factors
Consider what the end use will be and how much stress will be put on the piece you are making. In conventional jewelry, rings, for example, are considered more at risk than a pendant, bracelets somewhere in between… One should also consider how much pull there will be on the piece. If it is a bail, it will need to be able to hold up some weight and movement over time… So yes, the more stress, the higher breaking strength…

Personal Preferences
Some beaders are adamant about their preferences. For Peyote, I run into entrenched camp of FireLine vs PowerPro… I am still in the process of discovering and playing around. Color is a great consideration for me, and I have worked with C-Lon Bead Thread for a long time on leather wrap bracelet, so I am used to working with it. Cost is also a consideration as nylon beading thread is a lot less expensive than Spectra and Dyneema bonded thread. Well that is for another post… This one is already way too long!

–> Nylon Thread & Cord

Peyote Stitch History

Why is it named 'Peyote Stitch'? 

I got curious… in all the hours spent beading… I think I found some answers in an article in the Examiner and a blog entry and a short paragraph in Beading Daily.

Image Courtesy of The Bead Lab

This beading technique can be traced all the way to Ancient Egypt.

Naming this off-loom technique 'Peyote' originated in the 19th century in the USA due to its popularity among Plain Indian beadwork and it's ties with objects beaded in such a manner used in Peyote ceremonies by the Native American Church. 

It is also known as 'gourd stitch' and as 'running-bond stitch'. The naming of this technique 'gourd stitch' comes from the use of this beading technique to decorate gourd containers. This technique is found all over the world, in West Africa, in Huichol beadwork in Mexico, and of course in contemporary beadwork around the world. 

Peyote Stitch - The FAST & Sometimes Frustrating Method

While searching for info on Peyote stitch, I run into the FAST method on this site: http://wildsallyroad.blogspot.com/2011/09/fast-f-s-t-peyote.html. I was intrigued and tried it. 

This alternate method can be used for even or odd count peyote. It is shown here with an odd-count.

Someone with much more experience with Peyote than I have, nicknamed it the FAST and FRUSTRATING method as whatever time might be saved is quickly lost if any mistakes are made along the way as undoing is time consuming. When I read her email, I laughed so hard, as I had the same experience. I have already nicknamed this method the Double F method… As to time saving I don't know, I have not timed it yet. 

So far, I am a bit lukewarm about this method, mostly because it does not have the peaceful rhythm of regular Peyote… picking up a bead, catching a bead, picking up a bead and catching one… The rhythm becomes a meditation. 

Regardless this method has merit, but especially for odd-count peyote as it bypasses the odd-count turnaround. Myself, I prefer the 2 Needle Method for Odd-Count Peyote, but you can mix the 2 methods within the same sleeve project and find out which way is best for you.

Do the first 4 rows
Start using either the traditional method or the 2 needle start. 2 needles are used for this method, so you might as well start with the 2 needles. > Peyote Stitch - 2 Needle Start. Then add 1 row (4th Row, 3 rows were made at once with the start).

1. Place a mini-clamp on one thread end. 

2. Insert 6 Delicas Size 10, 3 Seed Beads Size 11, and 6 Delicas Size10. 

3. With the Needle #2, go through the first bead on right. 

This is actually the last bead you threaded on Needle/Thread #1

4. Place the mini-clamp on Thread #1, right at bead.

Catch the 2nd bead on left side, that's the protruding bead.

Then go through the 3rd bead on right side and pull the thread.
The two beads are positioned diagonally from each other. See the angle of the needle. 

5. Repeat step 4, catching the next protruding beads on left side, 

and go through to the right, skipping the next bead and catching the one after that.

 6. Continue. 

 7. Here are the beads of Row 5 & 6 all added in. This method adds 2 rows at once.

Peyote Stitch rows are counted in a diagonal, or zig-zag fashion. 

 8. Remove the mini-clamp and adjust the tension. 

Here the same sequence started for row 7 & 8

9. Insert 6 Delicas 10s, 3 Seed Beads 11s, and 6 Delicas 10s. 

10. With the Needle #2, go through the first bead on right. 

This is actually the last bead you threaded on Needle #1

11. Place the mini-clamp on Thread/Needle #1, right at bead.

12. Catch the next 2 beads. 

Continue integrating the 2 sides by catching 1 bead on each side, and skipping 1 in between.

Once the rectangle is finished it can be joined into a tube by zipping the 2 sides together. See the other tutorials for the peyote sleeves listed below for instruction on finishing. 

This sleeve was done with 0.06 WildFire in Camouflage Green. The Miyuki bead mix is Green Patina with Delicas Size 10 and Duracoat Gold Seed bead Size 11. This is my final post for the Peyote Sleeves, Yay. Look for an upcoming review on Beading Thread. Otherwise, at least for the time being… I am switching back to other projects next. 

References

Other Peyote Stitch Tutorials
Even-Count Peyote Sleeves with Delicas Size 11
Even-Count Peyote Sleeves with Seed Beads Size 11

Odd-Count Peyote Sleeves with Delicas Size 10 & Seed Beads Size 11

2 Needle Start - An Alternative Method to Start Peyote

2 Needle Method for Odd-Count Peyote

Get Kits, Materials & Tools
Peyote Beaded Sleeves
Kumihimo Bracelet with Long Magatamas & C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord
Magnetic End Clasps in Gold or Silver Tone

Related Posts
Why add Beaded Sleeves over Magnetic Clasps? Beside the esthetic…
Thread Burners Review