Beading Thread - Comparing Fireline, Power Pro, WildFire, C-Lon Bead Thread, KO and Miyuki Beading Thread

Choosing beading thread can be complex as each of them has their pluses and minuses, and of course it all depends on the type of beads and the beading technique you are using, as well as what you are making.

Here is a chart and some notes on the best beading thread available. All fit onto beading needles Size 10-12 and can be melted with a thread burner.

Brand Names
KO and Miyuki Beading Thread must be made by the same factory. The thread quality, spools, and colors are exactly the same. The labels are the only differences.

C-Lon and S-Lon or Superlon are also, as far as I know, made in the same factory for different producers. They may have yardage difference in the D size and C-Lon has 3 additional colors of the AA size.  - More in post about C-Lon vs S-Lon


Thread Type & Construction

Nylon Monocord
Nylon was invented to replace silk for silk stocking. It is strong, can be pulled and has a bit of stretch. The original nylon stocking were so strong that they did not need to be replaced… and guess what, over time the quality was lowered on purpose so they would snag and need replacing… Back to nylon, the nylon filaments can be twisted into a 1-ply, 2-ply or 3-ply cord, or braided. C-Lon Bead Cord is a 3-ply bonded nylon. Chinese Knotting Cord is a braided nylon.

For the KO, Miyuki and C-Lon Beading Thread, the filaments are lightly twisted into a 1-ply cord, known as a monocord, not to be confused with monofilament, that's the original fishing line.  In addition to its good abrasion resistance and excellent strength, the monocord has a flat, ribbon-like cross section and it flattens against beads making this type of thread great for doing multi pass through the bead holes. The thread is either waxed as in KO & Miyuki, or lightly bonded in the C-Lon Beading Thread to hold the filaments together. The multifilament monocord was originally designed as a low profile sewing thread.

Dyneema & Spectra
Both are Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthylenes. Dyneema is made by DSM in the Netherlands and Spectra by Honeywell in the USA. UHMWPE, for short, is know for its strength, low stretch and low weight. As a fiber, it is used for fishing lines, parachute cord, sailing lines, personal armor, puncture resistant clothing for fencing and more.

As to the differences between 6 lb. Fireline, 10 lb. WildFire and Power Pro, FireLine and Power Pro are braided whereas WildFire has a monocord thread construction. The 6 lb. Fireline has a thinner fiber braided core and a very thick thermally applied bonding. The bond material coats the fiber core, and the texture of the braid is non existent, whereas Power Pro has some texture, even through the bonded coat.

Thread Size or Diameter
Many beading techniques require multiple passes through the same bead hole, so the thread diameter is very important. The number on the chart represent the official diameters, but here is my list done by touch. The diameters are too thin to measure with a ruler or a caliper.

Thinnest to less thin:

1. KO - Miyuki Beading Thread
2. C-Lon Bead Thread Size AA ~ by just a tad, maybe… 
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3. C-Lon Bead Thread Size D
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4. 6 lb. FireLine
5. WildFire 006
6. 10 lb. Power Pro ~ maybe by a tad, or the thread texture might makes the thread feel thicker… 

I separated them in groups to delineate clear diameter size differences. Please note that FireLine, WildFire and Power Pro come in larger sizes, but they are a bit too thick to allow for multiple passes and they become harder to thread on the needles Size 10 or 12. 

Ease of Threading onto a Needle
The thinner thread are easier to thread on a needle. I use beeswax at the end of the nylon thread to keep the filaments from separating. The hardest thread to insert into the needle are the braided ones, as they need to cut nice and clean and threaded immediately before the braid starts separating. PowerPro is the hardest one to thread into the needle, but once in, because of its texture, it stays in place, whereas the other threads, being more slippery, fall off the needle more easily.

Easier to Hardest to Cut 
The nylon threads are easy to cut with sharp scissors. The Dyneema & Spectra thread are hard to cut, with FireLine being the easiest of the three, and PowerPro being the hardest. I tried regular embroidery scissors, wire cutters, and a thread burner, but that left a small bead at the end of the thread. A pair of titanium scissors worked best, especially when holding the thread taut when cutting.

Breaking Strength
See the chart, the thread lines up the following way, from lowest to highest:
4 lb. - 1.81 Kg - KO - Miyuki, C-Lon Bead Thread Size AA
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6lb. - 2.72 Kg - 6 lb. FireLineC-Lon Bead Thread Size D
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10 lb. - 4.53 Kg - WildFire 006, 10 lb. Power Pro

Colors and Notes on Thread
I have been told repetitively that with most beading techniques, the thread color does not show, but with peyote for example, the thread shows up on the edges… I can see it!

KO - Miyuki Beading Thread has 18 colors. Some of the colors are perfect. The Gold for example is absolutely perfect for gold seed beads. The Lilac, Denim, Light Grey, and Apricot are fabulous choices… 

The thread is pre-waxed, making it easy to use. It is thin, easy to cut and threads easily onto a needle. The breaking strength is the lowest, but for pieces that are not structuraly under stress and for beads with smooth edges, it is very nice to work with. It flattens against the beads, making multiple passes easy as long as you hold the thread that is already in the beads taut while you insert the needle back in. 

C-Lon Bead Thread Size AA & D come in 39 and 36 colors respectively. Many of the colors are amazing. I love the Light Brown, Purple, Chocolate, Grey, Burgundy, Seafoam, Turquoise & Teal, and it doubles up as a great thread for leather wrap bracelets/ladder bracelets especially in Size D.

Size D has a higher breaking strength and would be my first choice between the two. It functions very much like KO/Miyuki Beading Thread as to ease, especially with a light addition of beeswax. But stay away from low quality wax that is sticky. A good clean hard beeswax is what's needed here. Another thread conditioner option would be a light coat of Fray Block, not Fray Check that is too thick. 

The colors on the nylon beading thread listed above are colorfast, washable, but may bleach with long exposure to sunlight. The Dyneema and Spectra beading thread listed below are basically white and cannot be dyed. The color is added to the bonding material. If you peel the bonded coat, the fiber underneath is white… 

FireLine comes in two colors, Smoke and Crystal. Crystal is white. It seems a bit translucent, but when placed on a dark color, it does not change. Smoke is dark grey. The thread is quite strong, it can be pulled on and it will flatten somewhat against beads, but not as much as the nylon beading thread. FireLine and WildFire are fairly slippery, so watch the thread tension.

WildFire comes in 3 colors: Frost, Black and Camouflage Green. I nicknamed it Camouflage because the green seems to blend with many other colors somehow and it is also a color used in the military and for fishing…. For some strange reason I think I like WildFire better than FireLine, but that may be just this week… 

And last but not least, Power Pro has just 2 colors. It has a few more colors, available in fishing stores, like a bright yellow, blue, red… but none have made it into the beading world yet, so try your local fishing store… This thread is strong and has a bit of a texture, so the needle does not fall off, but it also tends to stay rounder; it does not flatten much. 

Consideration about Beads

The type of bead used is a major consideration. Check your beads, make sure that the bead edges are nice and smooth, or as smooth as possible. I found along the way that some beads are simply not suitable for cord and thread, and maybe not even wire. Some beads are simply not well cut enough to be used in any project. With natural materials such as gemstones, often the difference between an inexpensive strand and a more expensive one is the quality of the bead edges.

With any beads that have a sharper edge, I would stay away from any of the nylon thread, as the sharp edges may abrade the filament one at a time. The heavy bonds on the Spectra and Dyneema thread will hold up better over time.

Structure or Drape?
I have read that drape or structure is based on the thread you use, but I have not found it to be the case. The thread tension is responsible for the drape or tight structure. In peyote stitch, for example, adding extra turns around beads can help hold the thread tension. It takes practice to hold the tension even. So yes, with your first piece, regardless of which thread you use, you may not have total control over the tension, but over time it gets easier.

Other Stress Factors
Consider what the end use will be and how much stress will be put on the piece you are making. In conventional jewelry, rings, for example, are considered more at risk than a pendant, bracelets somewhere in between… One should also consider how much pull there will be on the piece. If it is a bail, it will need to be able to hold up some weight and movement over time… So yes, the more stress, the higher breaking strength…

Personal Preferences
Some beaders are adamant about their preferences. For Peyote, I run into entrenched camp of FireLine vs PowerPro… I am still in the process of discovering and playing around. Color is a great consideration for me, and I have worked with C-Lon Bead Thread for a long time on leather wrap bracelet, so I am used to working with it. Cost is also a consideration as nylon beading thread is a lot less expensive than Spectra and Dyneema bonded thread. Well that is for another post… This one is already way too long!

–> Nylon Thread & Cord

Peyote Stitch - The 2 Needle Method for Odd-Count Peyote

 This tutorial is for an alternate way of making the Peyote Sleeve with a Mix of Miyuki Delicas Size 10 and Miyuki Seed Beads Size 11. It is part in the series of tutorials for the Peyote Sleeves for the Kumihimo Bracelet with Long Magatamas & C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord. Start at the beginning with this post: Peyote Beaded Sleeves.

Start by beading the first 3 rows, using either the Traditional Method shown here or the 2 Needle Start. 

Traditional Start

Go to Step 2 on the Odd-Count Tutorial. 

2 Needle Start

It makes sense to use the 2 Needle Start, since you will need 2 needles to proceed anyways. 

1. The first 3 rows are completed. The bead count by columns:

6 Delicas Size 10, 3 Seed Beads Size 11, 6 Delicas Size 10

2. Place the mini-clampon lower thread, right at bead. 

With the top thread go through the bead at the arrow.

3. Add 1 bead. Insert the needle into the next beads, and repeat.

Sorry the in-between picture was too blurry to use...

4. Continue until the end of the row, switching beads for center stripe.

Remove mini-clamp and pull on both thread to tighten the work.

4. Place mini-clamp on the thread on the right side. 

Proceed with peyote with the thread on left side, going to the right. 

Add a bead and catching the beads that protrude in between additions. 

5. Add the last 'loose' bead on this row

6. Place the mini-clamp against the last bead. 

7. Switch to top thread/needle. Go though the last bead added. 

Continue as in above steps. 

8.  Continue until you have 14 beads on each edges.

The thread ends are coming out on opposite sides. 

9. End one side of the thread. There is several ways to do this:

You can travel the thread to the other edge. 

Or go around 4 beads repetitevely in a circle. 

Let the thread end hang out the edge. 

10. Check for fit. Oops, best done before the last step...

11. Zip both side together catching the protruding beads on each side one at a time. 

Check other tutorials to see zipping close-ups. Repeat step 9 for the second thread end. 

12. Melt the ends with a thread burner.

Caution: Test this first with extra beads and thread. 

Do not burn your work or your fingers. 

I cut the thread first a few millimeters away from the bead edge, then hold a good thread burner towards the thread without touching the actual thread. The heat is enough to melt the thread and it creates a drop of molten thread. When it touches the bead edge, push the melted spot right unto the bead hole. 

13. Here is the bead edge finished. The melted ends are barely noticeable. 

14. Attach the Peyote sleeve to one side of the clasp by stitching it in a few places into the braid. Use a leftover piece of beading thread to do that. The finished peyote sleeve, now attached to one side of the magnetic clasp, when the bracelet is closed, becomes the focal point for the bracelet. 

This 2 Needle Method has instantly become one of my favorite Peyote technique, even though I am usually reluctant to work with 2 needles. The finished product may not as tight as the regular odd-number peyote method, but both edges feel alike, whereas with the regular odd-method, one edge usually feels stiffer than the other due to the addition of the extra turn around beads. 

This sleeve was done with 6 lbs PowerPro in Green. Check this review on beading thread.

References

Peyote Stitch Tutorials
Even-Count Peyote Sleeves with Delicas Size 11
Even-Count Peyote Sleeves with Seed Beads Size 11

Odd-Count Peyote Sleeves with Delicas Size 10 & Seed Beads Size 11

2 Needle Start - An Alternative Method to Start Peyote

The FAST Peyote Method - An Alternative Peyote Stitch Method

Get Kits, Materials & Tools
Peyote Beaded Sleeves
Kumihimo Bracelet with Long Magatamas & C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord
Magnetic End Clasps in Gold or Silver Tone

Related Posts
Why add Beaded Sleeves over Magnetic Clasps? Beside the esthetic…
Thread Burners Review

Beaded Tubular Sleeves made with Flat, Even-Count Peyote Stitch and Miyuki Delicas Size 11

Beads, Beading Thread, Bead Embroidery Needles, a Mini-Clip and a Thread Burner

List of Materials & Tools

Beads

Miyuki Delicas Size 11 work well. They are incredibly regular, have large holes and come in great color choices. 

Beading Thread

I have tried a range of beading thread for this project and now choose my thread solely based on best color match, not based on breaking strength as there is no need for great structural strength for this project, nor do I choose based on thread type. 

Here is the list of thread according to their breaking strength, : KO or Miyuki Beading Thread, 6 lb FireLine, C-Lon Bead Thread Size D, and WildFire .006. Respectively, they have 4 lb, 6 lb, 7 lb & 10 lb breaking strength. 

As to thickness of chread, they are all thin thread, but they list from thinnest to very thin in this order: KO/Miyuki, C-Lon Bead Thread Size D, 6lb FireLine, WildFire. The first two flatten the most, the last two are rounder, but will flatten a bit against a bead hole. 

KO and Miyuki Beading Thread are exactly the same product, nylon filaments laid side by side without being twisted in plies in a monocord waxed together. C-Lon Bead Thread Size D is similar but thicker and it has no wax, just a very light bond. WildFire is a thermally bonded nylon filament, white in its center with a black, frost white or camouflage green thermally bond over the filaments. FireLine is similar to WildFire, but it comes in a dark grey, smoke color and a white named crystal, both are slightly transparent. They all have their own feel, but in the end for this particular project all of them will work well. 

The major factor for a good result is an even thread tension, and that will improve with practice. Don't stress, this project is forgiving, even on the first try! 

Bead Embroidery Needles

Blunt ends are better than regular beading needles. The blunt ends lowers the likelihood of splitting the thread when going through the beads multiple times. Plus they are short and no length is needed for this project.

Mini-Clamp

I found a mini-clamp much better than using a bead as a stopper, plus I already had one laying around  on my desk from the tool kit of the Kumihimo Bracelet with Long Magatamas & C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord.

Thread Burner

Great for melting the end of the thread. Alternatives: Cut the thread after taking it around the same several beads over and over. Add a drop of Fray Check or GS Hypo Cement for added security is so desired. 

Optional - Beeswax

Good for the ends of C-Lon Bead Thread Size D. It prevents the ends from splitting when threading them into the needle. KO and Miyuki Thread is already waxed, but might need an additional waxing. WildFire & FireLine do not need any wax but the end needs to be flattened a bit before threading it. 

We will be covering the magnetic tube with a flat, even-count peyote stitch by first making a flat rectangle and then zipping it into a tube. Even-count means that the number of beads along the length of the peyote stitch is an even number, such as 18 beads, which is the number that will cover the length of the clasp in this instance. 

1.  Thread the needle. Place the mini-clamp at 24 to 36 inches from the thread end. 

 Note: If I have the full spool I tend not to cut the thread off the spool until I have completed the first half of the peyote rectangle just in case I damage the thread and need extra length on the spool side. If you are working with a 48 inch thread length, clamp it at 24 inches. 

2.  Load 18 Delica Size 11 beads as shown here, or 20 if you want a longer sleeve. Check the length of the beads against the clasp. 

3.  Push the beads against the mini-clamp. These beads will become the row 1 & 2.  

4.  For row 3, load 1 bead and go back into row 1 & 2.
Skip the first bead, insert the needle through the second bead and pull the thread. 

5.  Step completed. 

6.  Continue, skip a bead, insert the needle through the next bead and pull the thread through. 

7.  Step 5 completed, continue, skip a bead, insert the needle into the next bead and pull the thread.   

8.  Rows 1, 2 and 3 completed. Rows in peyote stitch are counted diagonally.  
See 2 needle alternate start method listed in references below. 

9.  For row 4, add a bead, and go through the last bead added in the previous row.
This will be the way you start all the future rows. 

10.  Step 8 completed. Continue the row. 

11.  It is helpful to add the first 2 beads of a new row prior to pulling the thread completely through.
It helps keep the thread tension even.  

12. Once your thread is becoming short, thread it in a circle around several beads a few times. Leave the end hanging on the side. Cut the thread at spool leaving a length of 24 inches. (Skip cutting if your thread is already cut.) Continue your rows with this new thread ends until you have completed 31 rows and have 16 beads on each edge. 

Note: It is easier to count the beads on the edge rather than counting rows. The beads on edge are easy to see. Rows need to be counted diagonally or in zigzag.

In my note book, I keep track of the number of beads along the length and the number of beads on the edge, thus for this particular clasp I need a peyote rectangle of Delicas 11s - 18 or 20 beads long with 16 beads on the edge, for short 18b x 16b or 20b x 16b. 

14.  Check the fit around the clasp. Join both sides for the flat peyote into a tube.
Zip the two sides together by zigzagging through the beads on the edge of both sides. 

15.  Catch 1 bead on one side, then 1 on the other side. It will create an invisible joint.
Once you reach the other side, go in a circle between several beads several times or go back to the other side if any of your peyote is a bit loose. Leave the end hanging on the side.

 

 

 

 

Here is the bracelet with the completed sleeve.
The bracelet color is Razzleberry.
The sleeve Dark Plum Delicas Size 11. 

Finishing: Attach the sleeve by stitching it to the kumihimo braid on one side. Use a new thread to do that just in case you change your mind and decide to remove the sleeve later on. It can also be left loose if you want several interchangeable sleeves. See alternative sleeves below. 

Same bracelet with Copper Delica Size 11 Sleeve

Same Bracelet with Copper Seed Beads Size 11 Sleeve. The count is 16 beads wide by 14 beads on the edges with Miyuki Duracoat Galvanized Size 11 Seed Beads.
> See tutorial for this sleeve

 

 

 

 

Note: See next blog entries coming soon showing this same process with seed beads and an odd-count peyote with mixed delicas and seed beads.

 Same Bracelet with Dark Plum Delicas Size 10 & Copper Seed Beads Size 11 Sleeve
> See tutorial for this sleeve 

Related Peyote Stitch Tutorials
Even-Count Peyote Sleeve with Seed Beads Size 11

Odd-Count Peyote Sleeve with Delicas Size 10 & Seed Beads Size 11

2 Needle Start - An Alternative Method to Start Peyote

2 Needle Method for Odd-Count Peyote

The FAST Peyote Method - An Alternative Peyote Stitch Method

Materials & Tools
Peyote Beaded Sleeves
Kumihimo Bracelet with Long Magatamas & C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord
KO/Miyuki Beading Thread
C-Lon Beading Thread Size D
WildFire Beading Thread
Bead Embroidery Needles
Beeswax
Magnetic End Clasps in Gold or Silver Tone

Related Posts
Why add Beaded Sleeve over a Magnetic Clasps? Beside the esthetic…
Thread Burners Review

Peyote Stitch Beaded Sleeves - Why besides the Esthetics?

Occasionally I step out of my comfort zone, technically speaking… Away from techniques I am familiar with to meander into new territories. That is exactly what happened after releasing a new kumihimo bracelet kit using a magnetic clasp. Originally I designed the bracelet with a sterling silver clasp, but it added too much to the cost of the kit… So to keep the price of the kit low, I went with the magnetic clasp.

Then... Several of my customers told me of having problems with the gold finish getting removed due to their skin types. They planned on spraying a lacquer finish… Others including myself found the magnetic clasps preferred to attach themselves to various metal objects.

Finally after losing a bracelet for several days only to find it under my desk attached to a metal leg and metal set of drawers, I knew I had to do something to improve the bracelet.

So after searching for new clasps, I found new European magnetic clasps with strong magnets and advanced designs. These clasps are fabulous but their inside diameters are 10 mm by 7 mm, not the 4 to 6mm inside diameter needed for the bracelets. I look forward to designing new projects with these clasps. So keep posted.

Next, I decided to cover the clasps with beads, creating a tubular sleeve that would prevent the magnet from moving sideways. I remembered seeing tubular cylinders used a spacers made with Peyote Stitch at one of the show I attended. So I spent a weekend learning Peyote Stitch, creating rectangles and zipping them into tubes. hey I made my first beaded sleeves for the magnetic clasps. These beaded tubes are inserted right over the clasp, either left loose, so they can be interchanged, or stitched to one side.

Since adding the beaded sleeves over the magnetic clasps, I have not lost a single bracelet, and if the metal reacts to my skin, the bead sleeve will act as a barrier. Hey - Problems solved!

New designs or design improvements sometimes come in unexpected ways… And Peyote Stitch is easy to learn and very addictive. So try it.

Over the few next few posts or so, I will go over what's involved in making these Peyote Stitch Beaded Sleeves, show you a few versions of the Peyote Sleeve, show several methods of starting the peyote stitch and of doing the rows, and talk a bit about the history of Peyote Stitch and the origin of its name.

References

Peyote Stitch Tutorials
Even-Count Peyote Sleeves with Delicas Size 11
Even-Count Peyote Sleeves with Seed Beads Size 11

Odd-Count Peyote Sleeves with Delicas Size 10 & Seed Beads Size 11

2 Needle Start - An Alternative Method to Start Peyote

2 Needle Method for Odd-Count Peyote

The FAST Peyote Method - An Alternative Peyote Stitch Method

Get Kits, Materials & Tools
Peyote Beaded Sleeves
Kumihimo Bracelet with Long Magatamas & C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord
Magnetic End Clasps in Gold or Silver Tone
European Magnetic End Clasps

Related Posts
Thread Burners Review