Knitted Bracelet with C-lon Bead Cord & Beads

While exhibiting at Stitches West as a vendor, I got many inquiries about knitting with C-Lon Bead Cord. Everyone wanted to see samples, so I proceeded to knit some, among them a bracelet with pearls. Then at the next show, equipped with samples, I got requests for the pattern for the knitted bracelet.

As I am getting ready for my third Stitches West 2011 in Santa Clara, in February, I will share my experience knitting with C-Lon Bead Cord and beads. I highly recommend using the Kollage Square Needles for knitting with C-Lon Bead Cord or any Bonded Nylon, it really helps prevent cramping of the hands. Bead & Tools Kits as well as the Kollage Square needles are available for purchase in my online store.

Since the first sample bracelet, I made a second one while in vacation in Mexico for my mother's birthday, then my aunt saw it and she wanted one... I have made many since then, all with fresh water pearls, natural or dyed, and gemstone chips. This pattern can be adapted to other types of beads.
Try it, have fun, and experiment! - Marion



Materials:
5-7mm Fresh Water Pearls
25 mm Donut
1 4-5 mm Small Rondelle
1 spool of C-Lon Bead Cord

Tools
2 Kollage Square Needles US Size 1 / 2.25 mm (DPN-7 inch long)
1 Kollage Square Crochet Hook US Size A / 2.00 mm
1 Tapestry Needle Size 22
1 EZ-Bob Small (Optional)
Scissors
Super Max Thread Burner (Optional)

Thread Conditioners & Adhesives
Beeswax
Fray Check or Poly Zap Super Glue (Optional)

Note: Once knitted in each bead will sits right in between two stitches. To really show the beads off, purl right before and right after inserting the bead. I also recommend working right off the spool rather than cutting the amount of thread needed before hand.

Step 1. Loading Beads
Wax the end of the thread right off the spool with the beeswax. Make a self needle by shredding the cord with the back of scissors. Re-wax several times. Cut the cord at an angle and twist the end. Load all the beads, re-waxing and/or remaking the self needle when necessary. For post on self needle made with beeswax, go to this post here and check the last option.

Step 2. Bracelet Body
Cast on 10 stitches loosely using the long-tail method and leave a 12 inch tail - it will be used for the button loop later on. Optional: wind the end on a small EZ-Bob.

Then knit the body of the bracelet with the following pattern:

Pattern:
Row 1: Purl
Row 2: * Knit 2, Purl 1, Slide Bead in, Purl 1, Repeat once* and Knit 2.
Row 3: Purl
Row 4: *Knit 1, Purl 1, Slide Bead in, Purl 1, Repeat twice* and Knit 1.

Repeat Row 1-4 ending with Row 2 until the body of the bracelet is the right length. See note on bracelet length below.

Step 3. Bracelet End
Decreasing stitches - continuing with a stockinette stitch:

Row 1: Purl the first 2 stitches together, purl the stitches in between, and purl the 2 last two stitches together.
Row 2: Knit
Repeat Row 1-2 until you have just 2 stitches left. Bind off the last 2 stitches leaving a 12 inch tail when cutting the cord.

Step 4. The Button
Pull the Donut/Button in place, by first pulling up right past the bead, then pulling the cord past the rondelle. With the tapestry needle stitch the cord in and out of the knitted end ending on the right side, right behind the donut/button. Knot off or bind the cord and weave in the end. Or another option is to burn the end of the cord using a thread burner and add a dab of Fray Check or Poly Zap for security. (The pdf version available with the bead kits includes a diagram.)

Step 5. The Buttonhole Loop
Use the cord tail (from Step 1) and crochet hook. Starting at the corner, attach the first stitch right into the knitting. Continue using a single chain stitch and work to the desired length (1" 1/4 for a 25 mm donut). Insert the crochet hook into the knitting right at the corner and draw the cord through. With a tapestry needle reinforce the binding. Knot or bind the cord and weave in the end, or burn the end and add a dab of Fray Check or Poly Zap for security.


Notes:
Casting on: Cast on loosely. As bonded nylon has no stretch, if you cast on too tightly, it will be difficult to knit the first row. The first row in this project is purled as it is a bit easier to catch the cast-on stitches when purling.

Bracelet Length: If the donut/button measures 1 inch in diameter, your wrist is 7.5 inches in diameter, you will need to make the body of the bracelet about 6.5 inches long. Even though the bracelet is knitted with bonded nylon and bonded nylon has no stretch, knitting tends to stretch a bit once it is worn so make allowances when measuring.

Alternative to Attach Donut/Button: Use a coated beading wire such as Softflex and crimp.

Want to Block the Bracelet? Go HERE for this info.

Shop for Bracelets Kits, Kollage Square Needles and get a printed pdf of this pattern: http://www.store.jewelsinfiber.com/knit.html

This information is for your personal use and enjoyment only. You are of course welcome to refer to this website. Thank you for your understanding! - Marion

Please do not copy or reproduce this information for commercial purposes without prior authorization. All rights reserved © 2010-17 by Marion Hunziker- Larsen.

Knitting with Square Needles: Innovation or Gimmick?

When I first heard about a new kind of knitting needle on the market, Kollage Square Needles, I thought it was gimmicky. I had just completed my first knitted bracelet with C-Lon Bead Cord and was telling a friend with a lot more knitting experience that the small needles were hard to hold and gave me cramps. She thought these new needles might be the perfect solution and convinced me to try them.

The more I thought about the concept of a square design for a needle the more sense it made. We do not realize when knitting that we are constantly compensating for the needles turning and twisting thereby putting stress on our hands. We then set about trying to locate some to try and had no success at our local knitting stores.


While at Stitches West last year, we found them and I bought 2 sets of needles, DPN US Size 1 and 2/2.25-2.50mm, and two Kollage Square Crochet Hooks, US Size A & B/2.00-2.25mm. I fell in love with them after my first try. I have since used the Kollage Square Needles mainly for knitting C-Lon Bead Cord and C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord, the heavier weight cord, with beads on a jewelry scale. My friend has been knitting garments with larger needles and various yarns.

Kollage Square Crochet Hooks have become my favorite hooks to do single crochet chains interspersed with beads with C-Lon Bead Cord & C-Lon Tex 400 Cord. The square handle helps to rotate and to position the crochet hook without having look or thinking about it. I hope that Kollage will consider making square steel crochet hooks in the future for bead crochet ropes projects as I love their Rosewood handles!

These needles are recommended particularly for those of us with arthritis, carpal tunnel syndrome and stiffness in hands and fingers. In addition some knitters have found that their stitches are more consistent. As with all knitting projects, checking gauge is very important. Some people recommend going up a needle size to gain proper gauge but my friend and I have not observed this.

Kollage Square Knitting Needles are available in the following types: Straight, Double Pointed and Circular. The sizes are well represented. Two types of cable are available for the circular needles, soft and firm. We decided to carry the firm as they keep their shape and the joints between the actual needles and the cable are smoother.

The concept has been carried to crochet hooks using square wooden handles. The actual hook is made out of anodized aluminum, and the square shape of the handle helps orient the crochet heads at the right angle.

If you are interested got to > Kollage Square Needles

Eclipse on the Solstice

On the solstice, December 20, we were treated to a spectacular show, a total lunar eclipse at midnight here on the Pacific Coast. We are in the midst of winter storms with lots of rain coming in succession from Hawaii or from the Gulf of Alaska. So our weather vacillates between warm and cool storms. That evening by some amazing coincidence the clouds parted to give us a glorious show. We were able to see the full moon with stars and the Orion constellation, and then through various cloud veils and at times complete clearings, we could see the moon as it eclipsed. At total eclipse the moon was in a clearing and as a bonus we saw an orange shooting star and it crossed right in front of Orion. I still can't believe it.


In anticipation of the eclipse, my husband, Nicolai set up his art supplies outside on a table under the clouds. The clouds parted from time to time to reveal the moon in the penumbral shadow. The drawings below are his recording of the event.


This is the first lunar eclipse to fall on the winter solstice since 1638. The next solstice eclipse will be in 2094. In the meantime there will be lunar eclipses at other times during the year.

To see more of Nicolai's work go to his website:
www.nicolailarsen.com or Facebook/Nicolai Larsen

Tips: Best Ways of Loading Beads onto Cords

I get several emails a week asking me for the best way to load beads onto nylon bonded cord such as the C-Lon Cords or Nylon #18.

Here are some suggestions:

• Big eye needles
• Tapestry Needles or Beading Needles preferably with blunt ends such as bead Embroidery Needles - Size depending on the cord and beads sizes
• Collapsible needles such as a Griffin needles
• Threaders such as fine cord to pull your cord through. For example using C-Lon Micro Cord to pull through C-Lon Bead Cord. You can also use a needle attached to the threader or make a self needle with the threader.
• Self needles using Fray Check by dipping or rubbing some Fray Check onto the end of the cord. Let dry overnight or at least for a few hours. Cut the cord at an angle and use it as a needle. Re-cut at needed.
• Self needles with beeswax. Shred the cord with the blade of a scissor or a razor blade. Wax it. Shred it again and wax it until you get a nice point. Cut the end at an angle. Roll it with you fingers into a nice point.

The first 4 methods let you insert the beads with an actual needle, so they can be a bit faster than self needles. But since you also have to get the folded cord through the bead, it is sometimes too bulky for finer beads or thicker cords.

Loading beads with a self needle is best for beads with fine holes such as pearls, or when you wish to insert more than one cord into a bead.

Beeswax has several advantages over the Fray Check method. The beeswax does not require waiting for drying time. Fray Check tends to thicken the cord, whereas the beeswax self needle with a little practice gets the cord into a fine point that can get through finer beads than any of the other methods described above.

Note: Not all beeswaxes are equal. Some are sticky as they have too much residue left inside. My beekeeper tells me that the beeswax quality also depend on the bees diet. His thrive on a varied diet from the hills of the California coastal range from South San Francisco to the Santa Cruz Mountains, making his beeswax nice and hard. I leave mine close to a light so it soften a bit with heat, and applies more easily to the cord. Then it can harden right onto the cord making a sturdy self needle.

Of course in the end it is best to try all the different methods, find your personal preferences and your favorite way for specific projects!

Playing with Kumihimo Braids

I first encountered the name 'kumihimo' in 1978 at a show when the Kliots, textile specialists from Berkeley exclaimed in front of my exhibit that I was doing kumihimo. I had learned my braiding techniques from a sailor's book on knots. Upon their recommendation, I got their booklet, the first publication in English on kumihimo and a marudai.  I tried the marudai but I preferred braiding by hand. I have since played with the disk, mostly for fun...



In July at Convergence in Albuquerque I picked up some hand dyed ribbon with gold metallic to play with. I incorporated this ribbon, C-Lon Bead Cord and 4mm Miyuki Matagamas beads and finished the ends with sterling silver end clasps. The way the Magatamas beads stick out of the braid is fun, but of course you can do this type of braids with regular seed beads.



Materials: Rayon Ribbon, C-Lon Bead Cord, C-Lon Micro Cord, 4mm Miyuki Magatama Beads, 5.8mm inside diameter Kumihimo Sterling Silver End Clasp

Tools: 1 Kumihimo Disk, 8 Small E-Z Bobs, 1 Big Eye Needle, 1 Mini-Clamp, Scissors, Gardening Shears or Heavy Duty Scissors, Poly Zap Super Glue.

Here are the basic steps:

1. Lay 7-strand of ribbon and 1 strand of C-Lon Bead Cord loaded with beads.
For the first braid shown in the foreground, I used 7 strands of ribbon following the dye variations of the ribbon fairly closely so the ribbon strand would shift color at about the same time and 1 strand of C-Lon Bead Cord Medium Purple on which I inserted Magatama beads. I used a mix of two colors: Matte Black AB and of Metallic Dark Blue Iris from Caravan Beads (10 g. tube each). I loaded them at raandom, half of the beads onto the cord with a big eye needle and half way through the braid when I run out, I added the rest.

2. With a piece of C-Lon Micro Cord, tie all the strand together and wrap the end with a tight cork screw type of wrap, finished by a few half-hitches. This end is now ready for the end clasp. Clip the end with a mini-clamp.

3. Lay the 8 strands (7 ribbon strands, 1 C-Lon Bead Cord with the inserted beads) onto the Kumihimo Disk and insert them into the slots.

4. Wrap all the strand individually onto the small E-Z Bobs. For the C-Lon Bead Cord strand with beads have most of the beads inside the E-Z Bob with a few left on the outside ready to pop into the braid.

4. Braid using the very basic 8-strand round braid. After the first half inch, slide a bead in every time when braiding with the C-Lon Bead Cord and 'catch' the bead right behind the last strand.

5. Continue until desired length is achieved, leaving the last half inch without beads. Tie with a piece of C-Lon Micro Cord with a few half-hitches.

6. Remove from disk and make a tight cork screw wrap with the C-Lon Micro Cord, finished with a few half-hitches.

7. Glue the ends with Poly Zap Superglue after making sure the ends diameter fits into your end clasps.

8. Cut the ends with shears right into the glued area.

8. Glue into the end clasps.

Variations with 2 Strands of C-Lon Bead Cord with Beads:

The center braid was done with 6 strands of variegated rayon ribbon with gold metallic accent, 2 strands of C-Lon Bead Cord and 4mm Miyuki Matagama beads.
I chose Indigo C-Lon Bead Cord with Matte Light Topaz Magatamas and Celadon C-Lon Bead Cord with Matte Sea Glass Green Magatamas interspersed at random with occasional Matte Black AB Magatamas to add a bit of interest. I laid the C-Lon Bead Cord originally on two adjacent quadrants next to each other on the right of #32 and the left of #8.

Note about the basic round braid: The basic round braid is made by setting up your strands on the two slots on each side of #32, #8, #16 and #24. Then facing #32, move the bottom left strand up on the left of #31, the right strand down to the right of #15. Then turn the disk counterclockwise a quarter turn (90º) and repeat the same movement: bottom left up, top right down without crossing the center line... and turn the disk counterclockwise... and repeat... bottom left up and top right down... turn counterclockwise...

With this braid once you get started, you do not need to pay attention to the numbers. The strands will actually turn around the disk.

If you stop, either leave 3 strands up to find quickly where to continue or just look at the center to see which 2 strands were the last ones to cross over and continue with the opposite group.

You can make this braid without the beads. One of my customer sent me a picture of a braid made without the beads with a central focal beads made by a local lampwork artist. I lost it in my inbox. As soon as I find it I will post it!

A limited number of Hand Dyed Rayon and Metallic Ribbon, C-Lon Bead Cord & Bead Kumihimo Kits are now available > New Kumihimo Ribbon & Bead Kits

Nylon for Jewelry... Bonded or Waxed?

And more about bond than you probably want to know...


Nylon #18, a cord made originally for upholstery, used to be available waxed or bonded in the USA, but sometimes in the late 70's the waxed variety was mostly discontinued. Bonded nylon is better when used in industrial sewing machine. 

Nylon was originally invented in 1935 by Wallace Hume Carothers at DuPont as an alternative to silk for stockings. Nylon is a continuous fiber similar to filament silk. Continuous filament fibers makes nylon thread and cord very strong. Polyester on the other hand is a spun fiber mimicking cotton with shorter fibers spun into thread. Spun thread or cord is usually less strong, has more stetch and breaks more easily when pulled. This makes cotton or polyester good choice for sewing as the thread are less slippery. For jewelry making, silk and nylon are better choices when no stretch is desired.

Waxed cord is a bit easier to knot but harder to un-knot than bonded cord. There is a learning curve, for example for tying double half hitches in Cavandoli knotting with bonded cord versus wax cord, but once it is mastered bonded cord is a better choice. 

Advantages of bonded versus waxed nylon

• Better abrasion resistance
• Easier to undo knots
• Bond outlast wax
• Wax is allergenic

What's bond? What is it all about?

Here is the explanation from one of the C-Lon factory expert. 

It is a polymer coating applied the cord or thread after it has been plied, then heated and dried in ovens. The bond coating is critical in keeping the 3-ply cord together. It hold all the nylon filaments together and adds durability with a tough and smooth protective coating. Afterwards to make the cord stick together and hold its shape on the bobbin, tack is applied to the cord. 

The bond is essential for working with beads and for jewelry making, but of course how much bond is desired is a complex question... More bond creates a stiffer cord... Less bond makes a softer cord.

A consistent bond quality is essential to a cord brand. Drastic changes in bond levels can be a real problem. This is what happened with Conso Nylon #18. The newer supply had a drastically lower bond level than the older supply and the newer dye lots did not match previous ones. Everyone was returning the new supply and Conso discontinued manufacturing bonded nylon.

Bond whitening 
When the bond or tack experiences friction or abrasion, it will go from its transparent form to more of a white/grey color....think of cooled wax. When you break a colored candle, at the crack or breaking point you see white in the color. This whitening is going to happen with all colors but shows up more in the dark colors and is almost impossible to completely avoid. It can be worse when the bond level is on the heavy side and it is more noticeable on darker colors. 

Bond whitening occasionally happens with new cord production. It seems to occur in the middle of the summer or winter... and might be due to extreme temperatures differences when the cord was shipped. 

I have mainly seen this whitening of the bond with some of my older bonded nylon spools stored for a long time in a garage. 

Heavy manipulation of the cord can also produce whitening of the bond. 

For example, I noticed that square knot braids held up next to double half hitches were not as dark even though they were knotted with the same color. But when applying the fix below, the colors matched again...

Bond whitening - How to fix it

To fix this, simply rub a lint free piece of fabric soaked with isopropyl alcohol across the thread or cord. The alcohol activates the bond back to its translucent form.

I use lens cleaning cloths.

I have been making jewelry with bonded nylon and silk all my professional life. My very first pieces were made with waxed cord. Some of my pieces in my personal collection were made many years ago and have been worn extensively. Other than a slight fading and an occasional washing, they are in remarkable shapes.

In 2005 after a disruption of bonded nylon supply, I started an online supply store specializing in bonded nylon and silk thread & cord for my students. - Marion

Thinking about Macrame on Columbus Day...

Today during my son's music rehearsal with the Peninsula Youth Orchestra, I got a chance to walk along the Redwood Shore Bay Trail. It is part of The Bay Trail Project, a walking and biking trail that goes all around the Bay. While walking I watched the human development along the way, like the Oracle Buildings, and the wild life like the Belmont Slough, a jack rabbit, many birds and the crescent moon in the western sky.

Since today is Columbus Day, I also had a chance to ponder on the court of Isabella of Spain which sent Columbus to discover the Americas, the impact this court has had on world history and the development of the American continent, including the human development I was gazing at while walking. It reminded me also closer to home on how this court was responsible for the first 'Macrame Craze' way back in the 15th and 16th century.

Macrame work done in the 16th Century

Parts of Spain had been under Moorish rule for almost 800 years. The Moor civilization was artistic, scientific and commercial, but also incredibly tolerant of other races and cultures. During part of its rein, Muslim, Christian and Jewish culture were able to flourish together in relative peace. Ferdinand and Isabella recaptured Spain with the fall of Granada in 1492, but some Moors remained and continued to have an impact on Spain's culture. Later on Isabella also started the Spanish Inquisition after having a vision... Talk about bad juju... But back to my main topic...

Macrame is one of the cross cultural exchange from this period. The word macrame comes from Arabic and means either towel or fringe and would have then described the knotted fringes on tablecloth or shawls fashioned with knots. Macrame spread from Queen Isabella's court to the other courts of Europe, France and Italy. Macrame had a revival with Macrame Lace during the Victorian Era in England in the 19th century, along side with also the golden age of nautical knotting and fancy rope work. Sailors, mostly on whaling ships, would fashion work during quiet times to sell at port of calls for extra income.

Later in the beginning of the 20th century Cavandoli became the name for a specialty or branch of macrame started by Valentina Cavandoli, a teacher in Italy (See my earlier blog on Valentina Cavandoli).

Much of the knotting and macrame work done in the past was outstanding and is still a source of inspiration to this day.