Marion Jewels in Fiber - News and Such

Playing with Kumihimo, Ribbon, Magatamas & C-Lon Bead Cord - Update

2011-12-07T23:00:00.000-08:00

I just got the last skeins of nylon ribbon available from a New Mexico artist who has since retired and some rayon skeins from an artist in New York State. It is fun to create bead mixes for the ribbon colors. The names of the kits are evocative.

Coffee & Denim (shown above) is made with rayon ribbon and the C-Lon Bead Cord Sepia. The bead mixes includes 4mm Magatamas in the following colors: Metallic Dark Blue Iris, Gunmetal, Matte Transparent Light Grey & Metallic Dark Bronze. Fine Micro/Nylon #69 cord is included to prepare the ends for insertion into a sterling silver clasp provided in the kit.

Hand Dyed Ribbon from New Mexico, Magatamas Beads, C-Lon Bead Cord, Micro Cord & Sterling Silver Clasps

Amethyst & Silver Haze (shown on the left) has in addition some platinum tones. Five different types of beads create a lively mix. The C-Lon Bead Cord included is Lavender.

Santa Fe Sunset (shown in the center) is just like its name... The bead mix is made up of four different types of Magatamas. The color of C-Lon Bead Cord is Sienna.

Sea Green, Lime & Purple (shown on the right) has lovely tones, but blues and greens are so touchy. The blues especially need to be exactly the right shades. I ended up ordering a bunch of new blue beads but none of them worked... so the mix is made up of greens, dark metallic blues (already in stock), bronzes. The color of the C-lon Bead Cord is Sage.

Cornflower (shown below) is made with rayon ribbon, a bead mix that includes 7 bead colors and C-Lon Bead Cord - Capri.

All the kits include directions, a sterling silver clasp, the fine micro cord for finishing the braids. A tool kit is optional.

A limited number of the colorways shown above are now available > New Kumihimo Ribbon & Bead Kits

> See Earlier Entry about Braiding with Ribbon & Beads

Tips: Chinese Knotting Cord - Unwinding Skeins

2011-11-03T14:13:00.000-07:00

Some of the Chinese Knotting Cord comes in skeins of about 82 yards each. The Medium Weight is about 1.2 to 1.5 mm in diameter and the Fine Weight, about 0.8 mm in diameter. The skeins are hand wound so yardage is approximate. Dye lot vary as the skeins are hand dyed. The dye lots of the Medium and Fine weight cord do not always match. For your convenience in addition to skeins, I also sell these cords by 10 yard cards bypassing your having to deal with skeins > Chinese Knotting Cord

If you get Chinese Knotting Cord by skeins, here is the best way to unwind them:

Untwist the skein carefully and place it on a umbrella swift or skein winder. I prefer my swift vertically as shown in this picture below. Lay the skein as evenly as possible before removing the ties. Untie the knots at the ends. It is fairly clear where the ends are, they are knotted together and create the tie that encircle the skein. Before proceeding, tuck the end you are not using into the spoke so it will be out of your way. Then unwind the skein onto a spool or a card.

If you do not have a swift, use the arms of a friend, the back of a chair, or any other way to keep the skein open.

Occasionally the cord is hard to unwind. Resist the impulse to pull the cord over and under - do this as a last resort only. Sometimes moving the cord or turning the skein around on the swift does the trick. It loosens the cord, making unwinding easier again.

See Chinese Knotting Cord Selections > Chinese Knotting Cord
Get an Umbrella Swift/Skein Winder > Tool Section
Read a weaving entry written by Peggy Ostercamp > Unwinding Skeins

Circa 1975...

2011-06-23T14:19:00.000-07:00

A visit from the past... I must have knotted this piece around 1975 with either Conso Natural or Macraworld Natural Nylon #18. I was still making traditional macrame jewelry.

It came back for minor repairs, plus an extension. Some of the paper thin shell heishis got broken overtime and needed replacing. C-Lon Bead Cord Wheat worked well for the repair as it is the closest color to the Natural circa 1975. I added a few light colored gemstone leaves at the end of the extender as I do not have anymore of these shells in stock.

The collectors were concerned with the neckpiece became a bit stiff over time. I gave the piece a nice wash. I use shampoo and a toothbrush to clean the surface, rinse with lukewarm running water and blot dry with a towel. Let dry overnight. The nylon became nice and soft again. Now I better ship it back. They have been patiently waiting!

Tips: How to Cut C-Lon Bead Cord and Get Rid of the Curls

2011-04-09T17:30:00.000-07:00

This picture shows all four sizes of C-Lon Bead Cord and the sizes of Miyuki beads that can be strung onto the cord using a beeswax self needle. See one of my earlier blog about the best way of loading beads onto cord. From left to right:

- C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord with Miyuki E's (twice/2x), 6/0s, and 8/0s

- C-Lon Bead Cord with Miyuki 6/0s (2x), 8/0s, and 11/0s

- C-Lon Fine Weight Cord with Miyuki 8/0s (2x), 11/0s, and 15/0s

- C-Lon Micro Cord with Miyuki 8/0s (2x), 11/0s, and 15/0s

C-Lon Bead Cord and to a certain extend C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord, the 'heavyweight bead cord', tend to curl. This can be especially annoying when working with micro macrame, as it makes the process of finding the right cord to work with more daunting especially when working with a multitude of cords. For applications such a crochet, knitting or kumihimo with EZ-Bobs, the cord having a memory of being on the spool all curled up does not matter. For anyone wanting the curls to go away, several solutions come to mind:

When unwinding the thread, give it a pull one arm's length at a time.
Cut the cord the day before and add a weight to the ends overnight.
Steam the cord.
Iron the cord with a warm iron (a hot iron will damage the cord).

I have not tried the solutions 2, 3 & 4, but they have been suggested by readers of my newsletters. Many used them and are very happy with the results. I use solution #1 when I want the curls to be gone unless I have lots of cords to prepare.

For multiple cords, all of the same length, to prepare cords for workshops or when I plan my work a day ahead of time, I like to use the following method:

Set up 2 winding posts, warping posts or cup hooks set into pieces of wood attached by a C-clamp to fixed positions at the distance desired for your cord ends.
Attach the cord to the post/hook on your left (post/hook #1).
Unwind the cord towards the second post/hook and give it a hard pull.
Wind it around the second post/hook on your right (post/hook #2).
Return to post/hook #1, unwinding, giving a hard pull and wind the cord around #1.
Repeat steps 3-5 however many times until you have the desired number of cords.
Tie the end back at post/hook #1.
Let the cord sit on the posts/hooks overnight.
Cut the cords at post/hook #1. Hold the cords by their fold at post/hook #2.

Example: For cords 48 inches long, folded in half, both ends (2 ends) will be 24 inches long. So set up your posts/hooks 24 inches apart and cut he cord only at one of the posts/hooks.

Best with your creative projects! - Marion

To purchase C-Lon Bead Cord > Marion Jewels in Fiber Store

Additional note: I just tested ironing C-Lon Bead Cord with a warm iron: the lowest setting on my iron is acetate/nylon. I tested it with 6 - 48 inches long cords folded in half (24 inches long from fold/loop to ends). It works very well; all my stands are ready go. It is fast, does not require strength or pulling, but it requires getting the iron out... I am going to test it over the next few weeks by keeping the iron in my studio.

Blocking? More on the Knitted Bracelet...

2011-04-09T12:42:00.000-07:00

When writing the pattern for the Knitted Bracelet with C-Lon Bead Cord & Pearls, my assistant offered to block one of my bracelet. I did not know much about blocking, but she insisted that it made all the difference and gave knitted goods a professional look. She offered to block a few knitted samples we had done with C-Lon Tex 400 and one of the bracelets knitted with C-Lon Bead Cord. She used wet blocking for the bracelet letting it dry overnight pinned in place, and steam blocking for the Tex 400 samples. Of course since bonded nylon has a mind of its own, it was totally unaffected by the blocking process.

Blocking knitting is a simple technique used mostly by professional knitters and knitting aficionados. The piece of knitting is pulled and stretched into the right shape, laid flat, and pinned in place. Then several methods can be used to actually block the knitted fabric: wet blocking, steam blocking, or spray blocking.

Regardless of the method chosen, the fabric can be shaped first, then pinned, then moistened, steamed or sprayed last. The sequence can be changed by wetting, steaming or spraying first, then shaping and pinning, then letting it dry. This process, if well done, makes the knitted pieces more even, making it easier to seam them together into garments. It evens the stitches out making them look more regular. It helps the knitted pieces hold on to their shapes.

Still intrigued by the idea of blocking the bracelet made with bonded nylon, I decided to experiment... by blocking with rubbing alcohol (see my blog about bond). So after first checking that alcohol did not affect the fresh water pearls, I was ready to test this process and isopropyl alcohol turned out to be the perfect blocking agent for bonded nylon.

To block your knitted bracelet, you will need the following tools:

A Macrame Board (a project board with measuring lines or a Lacis Board and a ruler)
1 1/4 " Steel T-Pins
Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol
Cotton Swabs (Q-tips)

Process: Pin the bracelet right side up (with pearls up) to the board using the line or a ruler to shape the body of the bracelet into an even shaped rectangle. Pin the triangle leading to the donut button and the loop. Then after dipping the cotton swab into alcohol, dab the knitted nylon in between the pearls evenly. Let it dry. Remove the T-pins. The bracelet should now be nice and flat. If a bit stiff just shake it to loosen. It will loosen regardless as you wear it.

For more info on the knitted bracelet -> Knitted Bracelet with C-lon Bead cord & Pearls
To purchase a macrame board and T-pins -> www.store.jewelsinfiber.com/tools.html
To read more about blocking knitted items -> To Block or Not to Block...

Knitted Bracelet with C-lon Bead Cord & Beads

2011-01-15T09:29:00.000-08:00

While exhibiting at Stitches West as a vendor, I got many inquiries about knitting with C-Lon Bead Cord. Everyone wanted to see samples, so I proceeded to knit some, among them a bracelet with pearls. Then at the next show, equipped with samples, I got requests for the pattern for the knitted bracelet.

As I am getting ready for my third Stitches West 2011 in Santa Clara, in February, I will share my experience knitting with C-Lon Bead Cord and beads. I highly recommend using the Kollage Square Needles for knitting with C-Lon Bead Cord or any Bonded Nylon, it really helps prevent cramping of the hands. Bead & Tools Kits as well as the Kollage Square needles are available for purchase in my online store.

Since the first sample bracelet, I made a second one while in vacation in Mexico for my mother's birthday, then my aunt saw it and she wanted one... I have made many since then, all with fresh water pearls, natural or dyed, and gemstone chips. This pattern can be adapted to other types of beads.
Try it, have fun, and experiment! - Marion

Materials:
5-7mm Fresh Water Pearls
25 mm Donut
1 4-5 mm Small Rondelle
1 spool of C-Lon Bead Cord

Tools
2 Kollage Square Needles US Size 1 / 2.25 mm (DPN-7 inch long)
1 Kollage Square Crochet Hook US Size A / 2.00 mm
1 Tapestry Needle Size 22
1 EZ-Bob Small (Optional)
Scissors
Super Max Thread Burner (Optional)

Thread Conditioners & Adhesives
Beeswax
Fray Check or Poly Zap Super Glue (Optional)

Note: Once knitted in each bead will sits right in between two stitches. To really show the beads off, purl right before and right after inserting the bead. I also recommend working right off the spool rather than cutting the amount of thread needed before hand.

Step 1. Loading Beads
Wax the end of the thread right off the spool with the beeswax. Make a self needle by shredding the cord with the back of scissors. Re-wax several times. Cut the cord at an angle and twist the end. Load all the beads, re-waxing and/or remaking the self needle when necessary. See earlier blog on self needle made with beeswax.

Step 2. Bracelet Body
Cast on 10 stitches loosely using the long-tail method and leave a 12 inch tail - it will be used for the button loop later on. Optional: wind the end on a small EZ-Bob.

Then knit the body of the bracelet with the following pattern:

Pattern:
Row 1: Purl
Row 2: * Knit 2, Purl 1, Slide Bead in, Purl 1, Repeat once* and Knit 2.
Row 3: Purl
Row 4: *Knit 1, Purl 1, Slide Bead in, Purl 1, Repeat twice* and Knit 1.

Repeat Row 1-4 ending with Row 2 until the body of the bracelet is the right length. See note on bracelet length below.

Step 3. Bracelet End
Decreasing stitches - continuing with a stockinette stitch:

Row 1: Purl the first 2 stitches together, purl the stitches in between, and purl the 2 last two stitches together.
Row 2: Knit
Repeat Row 1-2 until you have just 2 stitches left. Bind off the last 2 stitches leaving a 12 inch tail when cutting the cord.

Step 4. The Button
Pull the Donut/Button in place, by first pulling up right past the bead, then pulling the cord past the rondelle. With the tapestry needle stitch the cord in and out of the knitted end ending on the right side, right behind the donut/button. Knot off or bind the cord and weave in the end. Or another option is to burn the end of the cord using a thread burner and add a dab of Fray Check or Poly Zap for security. (The pdf version available with the bead kits includes a diagram.)

Step 5. The Buttonhole Loop
Use the cord tail (from Step 1) and crochet hook. Starting at the corner, attach the first stitch right into the knitting. Continue using a single chain stitch and work to the desired length (1" 1/4 for a 25 mm donut). Insert the crochet hook into the knitting right at the corner and draw the cord through. With a tapestry needle reinforce the binding. Knot or bind the cord and weave in the end, or burn the end and add a dab of Fray Check or Poly Zap for security.

Notes:
Casting on: Cast on loosely. As bonded nylon has no stretch, if you cast on too tightly, it will be difficult to knit the first row. The first row in this project is purled as it is a bit easier to catch the cast-on stitches when purling.

Bracelet Length: If the donut/button measures 1 inch in diameter, your wrist is 7.5 inches in diameter, you will need to make the body of the bracelet about 6.5 inches long. Even though the bracelet is knitted with bonded nylon and bonded nylon has no stretch, knitting tends to stretch a bit once it is worn so make allowances when measuring.

Alternative to Attach Donut/Button: Use a coated beading wire such as Softflex and crimp.

Shop for Bracelets Kits, Kollage Square Needles and get a printed pdf of this pattern: http://www.store.jewelsinfiber.com/knit.html

This information is for your personal use and enjoyment only. You are of course welcome to refer to this website. Thank you for your understanding! - Marion

Please do not copy or reproduce this information for commercial purposes without prior authorization. All rights reserved © 2010-11 by Marion Hunziker- Larsen.

Knitting with Square Needles: Innovation or Gimmick?

2011-01-14T09:57:00.000-08:00

When I first heard about a new kind of knitting needle on the market, Kollage Square Needles, I thought it was gimmicky. I had just completed my first knitted bracelet with C-Lon Bead Cord and was telling a friend with a lot more knitting experience that the small needles were hard to hold and gave me cramps. She thought these new needles might be the perfect solution and convinced me to try them.

The more I thought about the concept of a square design for a needle the more sense it made. We do not realize when knitting that we are constantly compensating for the needles turning and twisting thereby putting stress on our hands. We then set about trying to locate some to try and had no success at our local knitting stores.

While at Stitches West last year, we found them and I bought 2 sets of needles, DPN US Size 1 and 2/2.25-2.50mm, and two Kollage Square Crochet Hooks, US Size A & B/2.00-2.25mm. I fell in love with them after my first try. I have since used the Kollage Square Needles mainly for knitting C-Lon Bead Cord and C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord, the heavier weight cord, with beads on a jewelry scale. My friend has been knitting garments with larger needles and various yarns.

Kollage Square Crochet Hooks have become my favorite hooks to do single crochet chains interspersed with beads with C-Lon Bead Cord & C-Lon Tex 400 Cord. The square handle helps to rotate and to position the crochet hook without having look or thinking about it. I hope that Kollage will consider making square steel crochet hooks in the future for bead crochet ropes projects as I love their Rosewood handles!

These needles are recommended particularly for those of us with arthritis, carpal tunnel syndrome and stiffness in hands and fingers. In addition some knitters have found that their stitches are more consistent. As with all knitting projects, checking gauge is very important. Some people recommend going up a needle size to gain proper gauge but my friend and I have not observed this.

Kollage Square Knitting Needles are available in the following types: Straight, Double Pointed and Circular. The sizes are well represented. Two types of cable are available for the circular needles, soft and firm. We decided to carry the firm as they keep their shape and the joints between the actual needles and the cable are smoother.

The concept has been carried to crochet hooks using square wooden handles. The actual hook is made out of anodized aluminum, and the square shape of the handle helps orient the crochet heads at the right angle.

If you are interested got to > Kollage Square Needles

Eclipse on the Solstice

2010-12-28T10:31:00.000-08:00

On the solstice, December 20, we were treated to a spectacular show, a total lunar eclipse at midnight here on the Pacific Coast. We are in the midst of winter storms with lots of rain coming in succession from Hawaii or from the Gulf of Alaska. So our weather vacillates between warm and cool storms. That evening by some amazing coincidence the clouds parted to give us a glorious show. We were able to see the full moon with stars and the Orion constellation, and then through various cloud veils and at times complete clearings, we could see the moon as it eclipsed. At total eclipse the moon was in a clearing and as a bonus we saw an orange shooting star and it crossed right in front of Orion. I still can't believe it.

In anticipation of the eclipse, my husband, Nicolai set up his art supplies outside on a table under the clouds. The clouds parted from time to time to reveal the moon in the penumbral shadow. The drawings below are his recording of the event.

This is the first lunar eclipse to fall on the winter solstice since 1638. The next solstice eclipse will be in 2094. In the meantime there will be lunar eclipses at other times during the year.

To see more of Nicolai's work go to his website:
www.nicolailarsen.com or Facebook/Nicolai Larsen

Tips: Best Ways of Loading Beads onto Cords

2010-11-03T02:14:00.000-07:00

I get several emails a week asking me for the best way to load beads onto nylon bonded cord such as the C-Lon Cords or Nylon #18.

Here are some suggestions:

Big eye needle.
Collapsible needle such as a Griffin needle.
Threader such as fine cord to pull your cord through. For example using C-Lon Micro Cord to pull through C-Lon Bead Cord. You can also use a needle attached to the threader or make a self needle with the threader.
Self needle using Fray Check by dipping or rubbing some Fray Check onto the end of the cord. Let dry overnight or at least for a few hours. Cut the cord at an angle and use it as a needle. Re-cut at needed.
Self needle with beeswax. Shred the cord with the blade of a scissor or a razor blade. Wax it. Shred it again and wax it until you get a nice point. Cut the end at an angle. Roll it with you fingers into a nice point.

The first 3 methods let you insert the beads with an actual needle, so they can be a bit faster than self needles. But since you also have to get the folded cord through the bead, it is sometimes too bulky for finer beads or thicker cords.

Loading beads with a self needle is best for beads with fine holes such as pearls, or when you wish to insert more than one cord into a bead.

Beeswax has several advantages over the Fray Check method. The beeswax does not require waiting for drying time. Fray Check tends to thicken the cord, whereas the beeswax self needle with a little practice gets the cord into a fine point that can get through finer beads than any of the other methods described above.

Note: Not all beeswaxes are equal. Some are sticky as they have too much residue left inside. My beekeeper tells me that the beeswax quality also depend on the bees diet. His thrive on a varied diet from the hills of the California coastal range from South San Francisco to the Santa Cruz Mountains, making his beeswax nice and hard. I leave mine close to a light so it soften a bit with heat, and applies more easily to the cord. Then it can harden right onto the cord making a sturdy self needle.

Of course in the end it is best to try all the different methods, find your personal preferences and your favorite way for specific projects!

Playing with Kumihimo Braids

2010-11-02T23:25:00.001-07:00

I first encountered the name 'kumihimo' in 1978 at a show when the Kliots, textile specialists from Berkeley exclaimed in front of my exhibit that I was doing kumihimo. I had learned my braiding techniques from a sailor's book on knots. Upon their recommendation, I got their booklet, the first publication in English about kumihimo and a marudai but gave it the marudai as I preferred braiding by hand. I have since played with the disk, mostly for fun...

In July at Convergence in Albuquerque I picked up some rayon ribbon with bits of metallic in it to play with. While at the Pacific Quilt Festival for my demos, I braided with this ribbon, C-Lon Bead Cord and 4mm Miyuki Matagamas beads and finished the ends with sterling silver end clasps. I like the way the Magatamas beads stick out of the braid, but of course you can do this type of braids with regular seed beads.

Materials: Rayon Ribbon, C-Lon Bead Cord, C-Lon Micro Cord, 4mm Miyuki Magatama Beads, 5.8mm inside diameter Kumihimo Sterling Silver End Clasp

Tools: 1 Kumihimo Disk, 8 Small E-Z Bobs, 1 Big Eye Needle, 1 Mini-Clamp, Scissors, Gardening Shears or Heavy Duty Scissors, Poly Zap Super Glue.

Here are the basic steps:

1. Lay 7-strand of ribbon and 1 strand of C-Lon Bead Cord loaded with beads.
For the first braid shown in the foreground, I used 7 strands of ribbon following the dye variations of the ribbon fairly closely so the ribbon strand would shift color at about the same time and 1 strand of C-Lon Bead Cord Medium Purple on which I inserted Magatama beads. I used a mix of two colors: Matte Black AB and of Metallic Dark Blue Iris from Caravan Beads (10 g. tube each). I loaded them at raandom, half of the beads onto the cord with a big eye needle and half way through the braid when I run out, I added the rest.

2. With a piece of C-Lon Micro Cord, tie all the strand together and wrap the end with a tight cork screw type of wrap, finished by a few half-hitches. This end is now ready for the end clasp. Clip the end with a mini-clamp.

3. Lay the 8 strands (7 ribbon strands, 1 C-Lon Bead Cord with the inserted beads) onto the Kumihimo Disk and insert them into the slots.

4. Wrap all the strand individually onto the small E-Z Bobs. For the C-Lon Bead Cord strand with beads have most of the beads inside the E-Z Bob with a few left on the outside ready to pop into the braid.

4. Braid using the very basic 8-strand round braid. After the first half inch, slide a bead in every time when braiding with the C-Lon Bead Cord and 'catch' the bead right behind the last strand.

5. Continue until desired length is achieved, leaving the last half inch without beads. Tie with a piece of C-Lon Micro Cord with a few half-hitches.

6. Remove from disk and make a tight cork screw wrap with the C-Lon Micro Cord, finished with a few half-hitches.

7. Glue the ends with Poly Zap Superglue after making sure the ends diameter fits into your end clasps.

8. Cut the ends with shears right into the glued area.

8. Glue into the end clasps.

Variations with 2 Strands of C-Lon Bead Cord with Beads:

The center braid was done with 6 strands of variegated rayon ribbon with gold metallic accent, 2 strands of C-Lon Bead Cord and 4mm Miyuki Matagama beads.
I chose Indigo C-Lon Bead Cord with Matte Light Topaz Magatamas and Celadon C-Lon Bead Cord with Matte Sea Glass Green Magatamas interspersed at random with occasional Matte Black AB Magatamas to add a bit of interest. I laid the C-Lon Bead Cord originally on two adjacent quadrants next to each other on the right of #32 and the left of #8.

Note about the basic round braid: The basic round braid is made by setting up your strands on the two slots on each side of #32, #8, #16 and #24. Then facing #32, move the bottom left strand up on the left of #31, the right strand down to the right of #15. Then turn the disk counterclockwise a quarter turn (90º) and repeat the same movement: bottom left up, top right down without crossing the center line... and turn the disk counterclockwise... and repeat... bottom left up and top right down... turn counterclockwise...

With this braid once you get started, you do not need to pay attention to the numbers. The strands will actually turn around the disk.

If you stop, either leave 3 strands up to find quickly where to continue or just look at the center to see which 2 strands were the last ones to cross over and continue with the opposite group.

You can make this braid without the beads. One of my customer sent me a picture of a braid made without the beads with a central focal beads made by a local lampwork artist. I lost it in my inbox. As soon as I find it I will post it!

A limited number of Hand Dyed Nylon and Metallic Ribbon, C-Lon Bead Cord & Bead Kumihimo Kits are now available > New Kumihimo Ribbon & Bead Kits

Nylon for Jewelry... Bonded or Waxed?

2010-10-11T23:29:00.000-07:00

And more about bond than you probably want to know...

Nylon #18, a cord made originally for upholstery, used to be available waxed or bonded in the U.S., but sometimes in the late 70's the waxed variety became discontinued most likely due to the demand. The bonded kind must have surpassed the waxed one.

Nylon was originally invented in 1935 by Wallace Hume Carothers at DuPont as an alternative to silk for stockings. Nylon is a continuous fiber like filament silk making nylon thread and cord very strong. Whereas polyester is a spun fiber mimicking cotton with shorter fibers spun into thread. Spun thread or cord is usually less strong, has more stetch and breaks more easily when pulled. This makes cotton or polyester good choice for sewing as they are less slippery, but not as good for jewelry as they are not as strong as filament fibers such as filament silk and nylon.

For making jewelry, waxed cord is a bit easier to knot, but bonded nylon once you get past the learning curve, is a better choice.

Bonded nylon versus waxed nylon

Better abrasion resistance
Easier to undo knots
Bond outlast wax
Wax is allergenic

Bond? What is it and all about it...

What is bond? Bond is a coating applied the cord after it has been plied. It hold all the nylon filament together and adds durability. It adds a tough, smooth protective coating. This increases its abrasion resistance. The bond is essential for working with beads and for jewelry making, but of course how much bond is desired is a real complex question... too much bond creates a thread that is stiffer... too little may be too soft... and...

Occasionally bond issue or a change in the bond quality occurs, such as the changes happening right now with the Conso Nylon #18. The newer supply has completely different bond quality than the older supply and the newer dye lots do not match previous ones.

Another problem encountered sometimes is called 'bond whitening'. This problem seems to occur sometimes when a bad batch of bond was used or too much bond was applied. It occasionally appears only over time, such as an old spool or when the manipulation of the thread creates a lot of abrasion. Here is the explanation and solution from one of the C-Lon factory expert. I tried it and it works.

To make bobbins stick together and hold their shape, bond and tack is applied to the thread. This coating is critical in keeping the plies together and the thread consistently wound in a finished bobbin. When the bond or tack experiences friction or abrasion, it will go from its transparent form to more of a white/grey color....think of cooled wax. When you break a colored candle, at the crack or breaking point you see white in the color. This whitening is going to happen with all colors but shows up more in the dark colors and is almost impossible to completely avoid. It can be worse when the bond level is on the heavy side.

One way to correct the whitening or dulling of the color after the thread has seen friction or abrasion is to rub a bit of alcohol across it. The alcohol should activate the bond back to it's translucent form. This whitening is something that shows up more in the heavier sizes as there is more surface area on larger diameter thread. The dark colors show it much more than light colors.

Some waxed nylon is still available but mostly in just black and white. I ordered some samples a while ago, but only black was available. A waxed polyester named Linhasita is available in South America and some bead stores in Mexico but it is difficult to find in the U.S.. It is made for sewing leather and shoes. Occasionally I get a request for this thread, and I got some from the factory in Brazil, but it does not ages well over time, plus I am allergic to its wax.

I have been making jewelry with bonded nylon and silk all my professional life. Some of my pieces in my personal collection were made many years ago and have been worn extensively. Other than a slight fading and an occasional washing, they are in remarkable shapes.

In 2005 after a disruption of bonded nylon supply, I started an online supply store specializing in thread & cord for my students. It features bonded nylons & silks. - Marion

Thinking about Macrame on Columbus Day...

2010-10-11T21:09:00.000-07:00

Today during my son's music rehearsal with the Peninsula Youth Orchestra, I got a chance to walk along the Redwood Shore Bay Trail. It is part of The Bay Trail Project, a walking and biking trail that goes all around the Bay. While walking I watched the human development along the way, like the Oracle Buildings, and the wild life like the Belmont Slough, a jack rabbit, many birds and the crescent moon in the western sky.

Since today is Columbus Day, I also had a chance to ponder on the court of Isabella of Spain which sent Columbus to discover the Americas, the impact this court has had on world history and the development of the American continent, including the human development I was gazing at while walking. It reminded me also closer to home on how this court was responsible for the first 'Macrame Craze' way back in the 15th and 16th century.

Macrame work done in the 16th Century

Parts of Spain had been under Moorish rule for almost 800 years. The Moor civilization was artistic, scientific and commercial, but also incredibly tolerant of other races and cultures. During part of its rein, Muslim, Christian and Jewish culture were able to flourish together in relative peace. Ferdinand and Isabella recaptured Spain with the fall of Granada in 1492, but some Moors remained and continued to have an impact on Spain's culture. Later on Isabella also started the Spanish Inquisition after having a vision... Talk about bad juju... But back to my main topic...

Macrame is one of the cross cultural exchange from this period. The word macrame comes from Arabic and means either towel or fringe and would have then described the knotted fringes on tablecloth or shawls fashioned with knots. Macrame spread from Queen Isabella's court to the other courts of Europe, France and Italy. Macrame had a revival with Macrame Lace during the Victorian Era in England in the 19th century, along side with also the golden age of nautical knotting and fancy rope work. Sailors, mostly on whaling ships, would fashion work during quiet times to sell at port of calls for extra income.

Later in the beginning of the 20th century Cavandoli became the name for a specialty or branch of macrame started by Valentina Cavandoli, a teacher in Italy (See my earlier blog on Valentina Cavandoli).

Much of the knotting and macrame work done in the past was outstanding and is still a source of inspiration to this day.

Tubular Bead Crochet Ropes, the Easy Way!

2010-05-28T22:00:00.000-07:00

After I opened my online store for nylon cord, originally meant for my students, I encountered many questions about bead crochet and decided to learn about it in my spare time. First I educated myself with a few books, then took a class making a necklace with single chain crochet - See my earlier blog entry. I also tried to teach myself tubular bead crochet ropes with mixed result as I could never get the first inch to look like it should, so I gave it up and planned to try again at some future time.

The solution arrived when I met a Bay Area jewelry designer and teacher who got so frustrated trying to teach tubular bead crochet to her students that she found a better way. She created a small tool to support the beginning of the crochet tube and came up with a foolproof method. Her small tool, a jig, help stabilize the first few inches of the crochet rope and it make all the difference. She has a patent pending on her jig and method. In the meantime, she gave me a jig and tutorial to try. The tutorial has over 60 closeup color photos and clear instructions.

On my first try, the sample rope was perfect. When I moved on to make a full bangle, a few times I had to undo and redo a row as I had not placed a bead in the right place. If you get careless as I did, you will see it right away as the bead does not move to the right place when working the next row. Here is my first completed bracelet!

It is best to start with 6/0 seed beads and C-Lon Bead Cord (the standard size). The 6/0s are about 4mm in diameter. I started with Miyuki beads from Caravan Beads and mixed different finishes. I worked with 5 color groups of beads, with 80 beads in each group, but had to remove some of the beads as the bracelet was too long. I recommend sizing your bangle before the final stitching of the cord and adding or removing rows if necessary. Mine still ended up a bit large for my wrist. I will size the next one better. One of the color I used is a mix, another two colors used at random to add a bit of spice. Using 5 distinct colors on the first few bracelet is best as it help keep track the crochet stitches. I used one of the new C-Lon Bead Cord color Argentum. One spool has enough yardage to make over 8 bracelets. My focal bead is a piece of coral and the bead ropes are finished with antiqued brass bead caps I got from B'Sue Boutiques.

The crochet starter jig and the tutorial on the CD teaches not only tubular bead crochet but also how to make the bangle bracelet shown above from start to finish. The pdf document on the CD can be downloaded and looked on screen with a pdf reader or it can be printed of course. You will need seed beads size 6 in 5 colors, 2 12mm end caps, a focal bead, 30 feet of 0.5mm bonded nylon cord such as C-Lon Bead Cord, Bonded Nylon #18 or Tuff bead Cord Size 5 to make the bracelet. As to tools you will need a steel crochet hook, a big eye needle to load the bead unto the thread, a mini-clip to hold the loop when taking a break or removing the crochet tube from the jig, a tapestry needle to finish the piece.

The tutorial has in addition information on measurements, optional designs such as an endless ropes, adding findings and suggestions for design changes.

Of course as soon as you master the ropes with 6/0s beads, you can move to smaller seed beads or to random patterns. Here is sample made with seed beads size 8. I used the new C-Lon Fine Weight Bead Cord Tex 135 for easy loading of the beads, and of course smaller crochet hooks. I also found out that the ropes made with Miyuki size 8 seed beads fit perfectly included in one of the silver clasp I carry. It is a 9mm sterling silver kumihimo clasp. Yes, because it is made out of solid silver, it is a bit expensive, but it would be great for a special neckpiece. I will try as soon as I have some spare time to do additional samples and will come back here to post the results. In the meantime, I will return to my usual field of expertise, knotting, micro macrame, Cavandoli knotting, braiding and cord making interspersed by a few other fiber and jewelry techniques to keep me on my toes.

The jig and tutorial is still not widely available, but Randi at StudioDax has agreed to let me offer them for sale. So get one and be on your way to learn this wonderful method to make tubular bead crochet rope, the easy way!

Order the Bead Crochet Rope Starter Jig and Tutorial at www.store.jewelsinfiber/crochet.html

Additional note: I do not usually work with seed beads or haven't really since I was a teenager. I played then with recycled French beads recovered from beaded flowers at cemetery after the wire decayed from exposure to the elements. At the time I made bangle bracelets using an Afghan method or I embroidered seed beads on my jeans, but of course just for fun. I have always admired the work done by beaders with seed beads and the incredible patience it requires! - Marion

C-Lon versus S-Lon

2010-02-07T20:50:00.000-08:00

I get many questions about Superlon or S-Lon and the difference between this product and C-Lon.

C-Lon first produced the C-Lon Bead Thread in Size D in December 2002. In March 2005 the Super-Lon Beading Thread, a 'new product', was announced by another company.

C-Lon started producing C-Lon Bead Cord in 24 colors, then 32, now 88 and soon 104. Superlon or S-Lon is now producing S-Lon Bead Cord in 65 colors. Some of the color names are different, but the actual colors and quality of the thread seem to match C-Lon exactly. The spools sizes and yardage are different. C-Lon Bead Cord used to have 86 yards per spool, new production has 92 yards. S-Lon Bead Cord 77 yards.

In 2007 C-Lon added the C-Lon Micro Cord, now available in 32 colors. S-Lon in late 2009 announced a new cord called Superlon or S-Lon Micro Cord available in 8 colors. The spool size is different and yardage 10% lower than C-Lon, 287 yards versus 320 yards.

When S-Lon Bead Cord was announced, I remember questioning the name and wondering if it would the same product as C-Lon, but some of the color names were different so I hoped it would be different... When I received my order I was disappointed as it was the same exact cord in the same exact colors, most likely made in the same exact factory, so a knock-off product... Of course all perfectly legal... just as Starbucks moving next to local espresso bars, large box stores putting smaller stores out of business, and then raising their prices... all part of the great game of competition... but we can choose whom we support.

When I opened the online store in 2006, many of my students could not find bonded nylon in their local bead stores. Only coated wire for stringing beads was easily available. I started the store with C-Lon and then expanded to all the nylons I use in my own work. I do not carry S-Lon nor plan on using it. Should you?

Photo: The spools on the left are the C-Lon Bead Cord. The shorter, plumper spools on the right are the S-Lon Bead Cord. Shorter yardage on S-Lon by 10-12%.

Workshop and Presentation in Bemidji?

2010-01-29T18:06:00.000-08:00

Occasionally a workshop get initiated under unusual circumstances. I came in contact with Dawn, the creator of intricate knotted creations a few years ago, when she was looking for mentor in the art of Cavandoli knotting. Then again when she was looking for thread. We have corresponded by email since. I included some of her beautiful creations in the presentation on 'Cords, Thread and Fiber Jewelry'.

This visual presentation premiered last August to the Bead Society of Northern California. It was received positively and described as a feast for the eyes, or pure 'eye candy'. See August 18, 2009 entry. Initially this presentation was supposed to be all about cord and thread, but when I requested digital images from friends, designers and customers to show the wide span of work being currently created with cord and thread, I got such a wonderful array of images that the presentation was transformed to an incredible array of artwork done in various fiber techniques. I thank everyone who contributed work to the visual presentation and it will be a pleasure to present it again in Fresno, California on March 20, and in Bemidji, Minnesota on March 26. Cord and thread, and the work done with it is a subject I am passionate about!

Last October, somehow in our emails, the subject of teaching came up, and I told Dawn that I would teach anywhere as long as I am invited. Dawn became the local coordinator, organizing the partial funding from the local arts council, Region 2 Arts Council, making this weekend workshop and presentation possible. At the time she told me she was in Minnesota, but I did not think beyond that. We worked on the actual program to create a weekend program during which students would learn a wide range of techniques that would be of interest to fiber artists, jewelers, and bead artists alike.

We set a date, March 26 for the visual presentation and a small trunk show, and March 27 and 28 for the 2-day workshop and we narrowed the program to...

... Cord making, 2-ply and 3-ply cords. 2-ply is easy and very useful for beading and micro macrame as one of the end is folded with no ends of thread sticking out. 3-ply cords can be made with a variety of colors and are fun to make and perfect as finished cords.

... Four-strand kumihimo braiding maru dai-free and disk-free. I taught myself this form of braiding from old nautical books before I had ever heard of kumihimo braiding in the late 70's. I remember meeting Kaethe and Jules Kliot in 1978 at the American Craft Council in San Francisco and when they saw my braids they told me I was doing kumihimo... I bought Jules' book, Kumi Himo (1977, Some Place Publication, Berkeley, Ca). It was my first introduction to traditional Japanese braiding techniques. My second book was Braids by Rodrick Owen - See an earlier bog entry on his presentation. The method I will be teaching is done entirely by hand. Although a bit more challenging to learn than the basic kumihimo braids done with the disk or maru dai, once learned, it is very fast and it creates a beautiful spiral braid.

... The 'Corkscrew Style Whipping' named by one of my student (thank you!), a form of whipping very useful for construction. Often concealed later either by either an end clasp or an ornamental covering made with several fiber technique. This corkscrew whipping is extremely useful when ends of thread need to be hidden and cut.

... Techniques for ending (and beginning) cords and braids, and how to incorporate clasps seamlessly.

... Button and toggles made with beads; loops made with larkshead knots.

... Method for covering over ends and the corkscrew whipping such as a clean whipping, a wrap, square knot sennit and open fender hitching (aka single detached buttonhole hitching) and finally the turk head knots with the introduction to the five-strand turk head knot.

It is an ambitious program, with a lot of techniques to learn. Not all will be aquired and mastered on first exposure, but this program offers many techniques that will be easy to learn for a beginner and many that will be of interest to the experienced artist.

Funding got approved, so now all I need is a flight from San Franciso to Bemidji that fits within the budget or a ride from Fargo or Minneapolis. Who would have believed that soon, I will be on my way to meet Dawn in Bemidji - Wait, where is Bemidji, with a name like this, it should be on a tropical island, but no, I had to google Bemidji, and I found out that it means 'a lake with crossing waters' as the Mississipi River passes through the lake and it is indeed in the Lake area in Northern Minnesota. Oh, yes, now I remember references about Bemidji in John Sanford's books featuring Virgil Flowers! - Marion

The top left picture is one of Dawn's pieces. To see more of her work, go to> Dawn's Creations on Etsy
For more information on the worshop and presentation, go to> Workshop

Cavandoli - What is it? - And who was Tina Cavandoli?

2009-10-25T20:38:00.000-07:00

I encountered the term 'Cavandoli' when my work was described as Cavandoli work without truly understanding at first what it described. I later found just a few mentions of Cavandoli describing the knotting technique and attributing its name to a teacher in Italy. So a year or so ago, out of frustration after finding very little little information when I was researching to get ready for a lecture on Cavandoli Knotting at Bead Designer International in the Boston area, I asked one of my sister who lives in Ticino, next to Northern Italy to help me. After searching online, she mentioned right away Elisa Ricci, whom I was already familiar with and a book by Gisella Tamagno Gazzola, called 'Bricco E Cavandoli due favole in punta d'ago/ Bricco and Cavandoli: two fairy tales on a needle'. Amazingly this book was published bilingually, in Italian and English, making it much more accessible as my Italian is not fluent, and within this book I found the answers to my many questions: who was Valentina Cavandoli? In which century did she live? And why was this technique named after her?

Cavandoli is a knotting techniques in which double half hitches are used in a continuous fashion without any loose thread in between the knots. Each double half hitch is done by one thread over another by making two half hitches in sequence. This process creates an incredibly tightly woven like fabric with a 'warp and weft'. By using different colors for the warp and weft, patterns can be achieved by switching the knotting cord with anchor cord and conversely, warp becoming weft and conversely. Cavandoli evolved from Macrame, the ancient Arab technique usually done with openwork (loose thread) for fringes, shawls or table cloth. The term macrame is derived from Arabic for coverlet or Turkish for towel. Elisa Ricci, an eminent Italian historian on lace, is credited for giving the name of 'Cavandoli' to this technique. So let's explore how this come about.

Example of 16th Century Macrame from Old Italian Lace by Elisa Ricci, 1913

I learned from Gisella's book that Valentina Cavandoli was born in 1872 in Reggio Emilia. She became a teacher and with her natural talent, later a headmistress. She took a course in the Montessori method and started a very unique experiment when in 1915 she became in charge of a school for children in need of assistance. Most of them came from families affected by the war or tuberculosis. Tina managed the school 'Casa del Sol' with an attentive and loving attitude and no problems arose. One of the methods she used to obtain such great results was allocating a slip of paper, a token, every evening to each child who had been well behaved. When 10 tokens were obtained, the child received a prize. But when the child was not behaving, he or she had to hand over collected tokens. She also instilled feelings of solidarity and justice by having children who received outside sources of foods or money from relatives and friends share with their friends who did not have any relatives outside the school. The recreational activities within the school included manual tasks. Tina taught the children a technique she had learned from her grandmother Virginia Lamberti who was an expert on macramé, especially the creation of colorful pieces of textile which became known as 'Cavandoli'.

'Casa del Sol' was truly a unique school. Both boys and girls knotted these pieces of textile that demanded time, attention, precision and discipline. They would have to apply basic math to copy patterns. The objects they created were sold in markets organized by the school and the money collected was placed in savings for each child. The amount each child would collect would vary, but it would provide them with some money when they left the school. The school had to close in 1936, as the Jewish community who had been its main supporter was facing their own many serious problems. Tina Cavandoli stopped teaching then and moved with one of her student's family. She died in 1969 after receiving the Italian gold medal 'on behalf of Public Teaching'.

Gisella Tamagno Gazzola's book shows the type of work the children did in Casa del Sol. It is very similar to work I have seen in books such as The Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work by Raoul Graumont and John Hensel, 1939 or the DMC Library Book Macrame, 1971.

A section of Gisella's book is dedicated to the actual technique with a well illustrated sequence showing how to knot the two-color version of Cavandoli Knotting.

Grazie Mille, Gisella, for filling in this part of the puzzle with your research of Tina Cavandoli's life.

Note: The artists I know, including myself, who have pursued this slow and intricate creation of Cavandoli knotted work, have often pioneered methods and personal approach to this art form surpassing the limitation of working with two colors and the two dimensional fabric this method tends to create.

Crown Knotting, an Alternate Method for Knotting between Beads

2009-08-12T08:47:00.000-07:00

Crown knotting or the crown knot sennit is an elegant solution for stringing larger hole beads and keeping them from touching each other. The crown knots have many advantages over traditional bead stringing techniques. The knots are completely symmetrical. They are easier to keep snug against the beads and are well suited for stringing beads with large holes or uneven holes as the ratio between the cord going through the beads and the actual size of the knot is much larger than with overhand knots or other techniques

This workshop premiered at BABE in November 2009 in Oakland, CA. For those not familiar with BABE, it is a bead show in the San Francisco Bay Area, the Bay Area Bead Extravaganza, offering workshops and classes. It will teach how to tie a 4-strand crown knots with the use of a kumihimo disk, a method that makes this process much easier to learn and master. The class project will integrate the clasp with a button and loop seamlessly with no loose thread or thread ends remaining.

I really enjoy coming up with new methods making knotting techniques easier to teach and to learn. It must be the teacher and technician in me. Sometimes everything clicks just the right way. In this instance the addition of a tool makes the task easier. So it will be a pleasure to share this new way to tie this ancient knot and of course the many subtleties creating a closure out of the beginning and endings.

More > www.beadextravaganza.com or > Crown Knot Workshop

September 2011: It's this time of the year again. This will be my third time around teaching Crown Knotting at BABE. This time I will have two assistants - what a luxury! Plan on coming for the workshop on Friday, going to the show Saturday or Sunday or taking more workshops offered by many other talented artists from all over the country. Hope to see you there! ~ Marion

New Book on Micro Macrame by Annika deGroot

2009-08-05T19:21:00.000-07:00

One of the wonder the internet is the open flow of communication. I found out about this book through questions received by email from customers about the Tuff Bead Cord especially the Size 3. I ordered the book, and found to my surprise my online store listed in the resource page.

"Micro-Macramé 30 Beaded Designs for Jewelry Using Crystals and Cords' is a paperback book, written by Annika deGroot, published by St. Martin Griffin. The 144 pages are 10.8 by 8.5 inches. It is in full color throughout.

The book has 30 projects to choose from, a page on beads, a section of cords, tools and a creative way to make a padded knotting board. Many Europeans, for example, prefer working with hard pillows similar to the ones used for bobbin lace rather than traditional macrame boards. I use an easel as I prefer to work vertically to save myself from back and neck pain. Annika de Groot also has a section on setting a cabochon by gluing it to a piece of ultrasuede and stitching beads around it. The photos used in the knot section are clear, most of the basic knots are shown with some naming variation such as calling the standard square knot a flat knot. A flat knot as far as I know is a square knot without its central cords or inner cords. Terminology is not very consistent in the world of knots, as different traditions mingle. In addition it has a tip section, a resource page and an index. Several of the resources listed are wholesale only.

The 30 beaded designs include good projects for beginners at micro macrame in the macrame lace tradition, with lots of loose thread between the knots filled with seed beads and crystal bead such as Swarovski. The list of materials for each project names the actual colors and brand names of the cord. Many ask for Tuff Bead Cord in size 3 and 5. Two ask for C-Lon Bead Cord, 4 Conso and 2 Stringth, a sub-name of the Tuff Bead Cord packaged by Rio Grande. Colors and brand name of course can be easily changed as all Nylon #18 and C-lon Bead Cord can be used for any of the projects other than those requiring Tuff Bead Cord Size 3, a different thread diameter.

Many of the designs in Annika's book have a vintage feel reminiscent of the Victorian era, similar in style to Marie Le Sueur's book. Both books are focused on macrame lace, Marie Le Sueur's is in French, a big disadvantage for anyone not well versed in 'la belle langue'. See April 2008 post on Marie's book. The advantage of macrame lace, with its many beads is the speed at which many of the designs can be done, but of course speed is a relative notion. For beginners, knots can be challenging, but of course one must start somewhere. Whereas for professionals like myself or 'power knotters' a term coined I believe by Kris Buchanan, knots seem just like keys on a piano to a concert pianist.

Most projects seem self-evident by just looking at the step by step pictures, at least for me, but please understand that I have not actually done any of the projects nor carefully read any of the instructions.

Visit Annika's website and see if this is a style of micro macrame you want to explore. She has a free download of one of the design in the book, a great feature before buying the book. Then if so inclined, you can buy it right on her site.

Annika's website: http://www.annikadegroot.com

A Jaunt in the Crochet World

2009-08-05T01:07:00.000-07:00

Julie's Class Project
Bead Crochet with D&E Nylon #18 Taupe, Various Beads and Tassels

After starting the online supply store with thread for my students, I got a lot of questions regarding bead crochet for which I didn't have any ready answer. I got a few books, played around with a few concepts such as crochet beaded ropes, but never finished a piece as most required a lot stringing ahead of time and when I experiment I often just try a few inches. So when one of my friend, Julie Goodenough, who teaches crochet came to pick up some spools of D&E for her class, I signed up.

Julie's project consisted of stringing beads one strand at a time, single bead crochet, joining the strands in a single bead crochet cording and ending the thread with a few beads. She shepherded us, her students, effortlessly through the project, spending extra time with the ones just learning to crochet for the first time. Her instructions were nice and clear. Most of us finished the neckpiece, sometimes with the help of a another student. I had extra time, so I added tassels for individualization.

Later in my studio, I decided to continue with the individualization of the process I had learned in Julie's class. I added other techniques I am more familiar with such as cordmaking and knotting, and made several pieces with turquoise chunks I had in my drawers. I found that I preferred C-Lon Bead Cord for this process over the softer D&E. The heavier bond of the C-Lon adds a bit of body to the single chain crochet, so you see, brand preference is individual. Julie said she will give C-Lon another try. My final decision is always all about color.

'Turquoise Crochet Neckpiece I'
Turquoise Nuggets, Turquoise Donut and Jade Toggle and Loops, C-Lon Bead Cord Bronze & Olive. Techniques used: Single Bead Crochet, Cordmaking, Knotting.
Neckpiece can be worn short, without the extender, or at adjustable length.

The "Turquoise Crochet Neckpiece III' (shown above on the right) has the same description as the piece above with Black Onyx instead of Jade and C-Lon Bead Cord Experimental Color #12, a possible future color, we will see... I sold the 'Turquoise Crochet Neckpiece II' at my last show before it was photographed, but 'Turquoise Crochet Neckpiece IV' is being work on as we speak.

If you are around the San Francisco Bay Area, take a class with Julie and visit her at one of her shows to see some of her beautiful pieces. Her classes are worthwhile and fun. Her jewelry pieces have very unusual combination of beads creating exotic and fresh compositions. In addition she also make purses, scarves and hats. Her motto is after all: 'Only the best is Goodenough...' So visit her website: http://www.juliegoodenough.com/index.html

Local Isn't Just about Vegetables

2009-08-04T16:33:00.000-07:00

Shopping local isn't just for fruit and vegetables. Buying from local artists and artisans has many benefits for our communities and should be considered similarly as buying produce at our local farmers markets. And local isn't just about geography anymore. The web has also made it possible to connect with larger geographical communities tied by common special interests.

This year I have renewed my commitment to continue working locally and on the web. I have limited my 'brick and mortar' activities to shows within the San Francisco Greater Bay Area. I may also give up on hotels or at least parking in their lots for a while... my car was the only car stolen in 25 years out of a Hilton parking lot while I was doing a show...

The added benefit by keeping shows more local, is a smaller carbon footprint. Other practices to be greener include: the reuse of packing materials, 100% recycled and post consumer paper for printing and ordering either locally in person or by mail whenever possible. This practice keeps me more productive in my studio.

Let me know about new practices you have started to keep your activities local and greener... Till later, Marion

Commission Work

2009-08-04T15:49:00.000-07:00

Special order or commission work can be as simple as making a pair of earring with brown thread instead of black thread. The price is already set, the piece is prepaid, made and sent within 2 weeks or so.

Occasionally, I get a component sent to me. Often it is a challenge as it may not be a material that I may have chosen to work with. Other times it greatly benefits my work to step outside my normal design comfort zone.

A back and forth goes on either by email or phone or both to decide the direction the final design and the price for the work. Then the commission is paid, the execution take place and the piece is either picked up or sent by mail.

Then as an artist, I await the final word from the customer who ordered the piece as all now depends on whether the final piece met their desires and expectations.

The art glass donut component with silver foil was sent to me. I chose some thread colors to go with the piece, C-Lon Bead Cord Chestnut, D&E Nylon #18 Light Grey and Vintage Mastex Bluebird as seen in the picture posted above. Ultimately the design got several components added to it: a 50mm Duomortite Donut, some Miyuki 6/0 seed beads and a sterling silver clasp. Additionally the braid got several color added for better color balance, C-Lon Bead Cord Navy, D&E Nylon #18 Navy and an especially faded dyelot of Vintage Mastex Navy. The techniques used included knotting and hand braiding.

The pictures taken were for record only, not intended for publishing....

TCO - True Cost or True Value?

2009-01-08T22:33:00.000-08:00

America loves acronyms especially 3 letters ones, so I was not surprised when I was introduced to TCO - Total Cost of Ownership. Total Cost of Ownership or should it be True Cost of Ownership? I had heard of it and was reminded of it just before Christmas when discussing badly manufactured items. Often these items break right away and can't be fixed, creating hassles, loss of time, waste and pollution, plus adding the cost of having to replace them...

Contrast these items with objects made by local artisans. For example a pair of earrings designed and handmade by me. They transcend fads and current fashion so they will last. They are great conversation pieces as they are unique. They are recognizable. If you buy them and the post breaks, for example, I will fix them as I guarantee them. Or if you lose one earring, I will make a matching earring at half the price of a pair if the materials are available. Essentially you get some value for your purchase and service if needed after your purchase. I find this to be true from most of the items purchased from fellow artists.

A Neckpiece's Journey

2009-01-08T21:06:00.000-08:00

Last summer I sold this one of a kind neckpiece at a small show in my hometown of Redwood City, CA. (Shown here with rings and spools of C-Lon Bead Cord and Thread SizeD). The newly constructed town square in front of the Old Courthouse had just won a prestigious prize as best new public place in the U.S. A live band was playing on the square. Lots of people were enjoying a late afternoon and early evening listening to music, having their dinner al fresco with a glass of wine or beer and looking at art by local artists, myself among them. The woman who bought the neckpiece seemed very enthusiastic and happy, left my booth wearing her new purchase around her neck.

Many month later I received a call from a woman who had bought a piece of jewelry. She was not wearing it and wanted to return it, but she did not want a refund nor an exchange. She just wanted to donate it back to me as she deemed the piece too beautiful to be donated to Goodwill. She indicated that she was among a group of the population who did not have any problem paying insurance co-payments, so she felt perfectly comfortable donating things she did not wear. I thought we were talking about a small bracelet and told that I would donate it as a door prize at my next show in her spirit. She replied that it was not a good idea and kept insisting that I should keep it or resell it as she had never worn it. We arranged for her to drop it at my studio. Imagine my surprise when I saw the neckpiece back. I was deeply touched and humbled by her thoughtfulness.

On the winter solstice my yoga group got together for an extra long yoga session with a extended meditation and a solstice celebration with a lunch. Several women in the group had asked me to bring some jewelry as they were looking for gifts. I brought many pieces from my collection on trays, no display... And one of the woman in the group immediately got attracted to the neckpiece that had just been returned to me and decided to purchase it. It looks beautiful on her, as if designed just for her. It just needed to be shortened a bit.

Whenever I think of this neckpiece's journey, I smile and wonder...

Election Day

2008-11-04T13:43:00.000-08:00

I do not usually write about politics in this forum but today for the first time I voted in a American Presidential election. I immigrated many years ago after falling in love with an American I met in Canada (my one and only husband, Nicolai Larsen). I remained a permanent resident green card holder even though I was eligible to become an American citizen years ago. During the first Bush term I got motivated to become a citizen, to vote him out of office. I became American in mid-November 2004 in a moving swearing-in ceremony but too late to vote in the 2004 election. New citizens from countries around the world were sworn in by country of origin in alphabetical order starting with Afghanistan and ending with Zimbabwe. As each country was called new Americans rose until the full auditorium was standing. The largest group were from China, Mexico, The Philippines and India. By the time Switzerland was called almost everyone was already standing.

I voted for the first time in 2006, than last June in the primary. Voting today was easy in my precinct, no lines at 9:30 am, a voting machine with a paper audit trail clearly seen when voting, 3 chances to double check before casting the vote, so all above board.

Political opinions aside, this run to election has been riveting. I have spent many hours knotting away in my studio listening to the news on my computer. My family and friends in Europe are also incredibly interested in the outcome of this election. Regardless we will get a new president who will restore some of our international standing. As to real change we will see as actual change is a lot harder than rhetorics and so many of the problems facing us have no easy solutions.

Regardless, goodbye imperial style swaggering, goodbye bad elocution and goodbye Bush kleptocracy...

Added on January 9, 2009 - just 11 days before the Inauguration: I just saw a photo of Chaney presiding over the Senate as the election was certified. Was he smirking as the administration he represents is handing out a plate of manure to Obama? I believe the Bush administration thought the economy was not going to fall into shamble until they were well out of office and they got caught by surprise by the timing, not the fact that it was occurring as they continued to plunder the dying beast until the very last minute. Had that occurred, they could even have blamed the whole debacle onto the upcoming administration and repeated it at nauseum until it became a 'truth'. It was the last stand of a dying breed of dinosaurs, a retroactive force - the old economy based purely on profit regardless on any costs to society at large or future generations. And now that all the old structures are collapsing, the need to create new ones is obvious. So we may have hope for the future with the return of actual civil servants to the White House to help us move toward a new economy that is sustainable and less toxic to the planet. Let's just hope the transition will not be too bumpy for each of us as individuals, and let's embrace the future of new possibilities as it is coming anyways.

'Paracas Headband Textiles Revisited' with Rodrick Owen

2008-10-20T18:14:00.000-07:00

Rodrick Owen is a leading expert on Pre-Columbian and Japanese braids known for his seminal book 'Braids, 250 Patterns from Japan, Peru and Beyond' published by Interweave Press in 1995.
A friend gave me a hardcover copy when it was published. I browsed through the book, considered some of the techniques, but kept to my methods of braiding at the time. I had discovered braiding through nautical knotting books in the mid 70's and only heard of the term 'kumihimo' in 1978 when I met Jules and Kaethe Kliot while exhibiting at the San Francisco American Craft Council Show. The Kliots had published a booklet on kumihimo the previous year. Jules Kliot owns Lacis in Berkeley.

I have since then revisited Rodrick's book several times when playing with kumihimo at first with a maru dai, then recently when trying out braids with nylon cord, the kumihimo disk and EZ bobs.

It was a great pleasure to meet Rodrick in person last Thursday at his presentation at the Black Sheep Handweavers Guild. He started by tracing the movement the people who came over the Bering land bridge 30,000 years ago and then showing various sites where excavations found signs of civilizations and textiles in burial sites. In the Paracas necropolis, mummies were bound in place by cords and wrapped with many layers of intricate textiles, such as tunics, mantles and headbands.

He took us then on a visual tour of Paracas and Nazca textiles from around 600 BCE to 400 CE, stunning us with braids, weaving and embroideries of such complexity that no one now knows how to reproduce them. Visually, some pieces were like modern art. One textile design depicted abstractions of windows and modern buildings in the style of a Hundertwasser's. Others had interconnected designs precursors of M.C. Esher's tesselations.

We got a chance after the presentation to see some of Rodrick's samples of interlaced, fingerwoven braids. Go to Rodrick Owen's website at http://homepage.mac.com/billgreene1/owen/owenhome.html

What a treat to look at ancient textiles and modern creation of forgotten fiber arts!

Tamara Hill in Ornament Magazine

2008-10-13T21:54:00.000-07:00

Congratulation to Tamara Hill, for being featured in the current Ornament Magazine. I met Tamara, a designer through my online store. She was looking for thread. When I saw her website, I looked forward to meeting her due to her connection to beads and Buddhism. We have since connected via emails, phone, and in person at shows, Bead Society meetings... Her work features lots of bold one of a kind beads and many crown knots done with various thread and cord, some from my store.

Check her work in the latest Ornament Magazine or on her website.

Tamara Hill Website: http://tamarahillstudio.com/

Ornament Magazine: http://www.ornamentmagazine.com/current.html

Photos of necklaces are by George Post

For the Love of Jewels Interview

2008-06-30T22:50:00.000-07:00

I get a lot of emails everyday and make an effort to respond as quickly as I can to questions and requests for information.
Sally Jewett-Bocato contacted me by email: 'I came across your website while looking for artisan jewelry galleries in the SF area....I was blown away by your beautiful work and would like to do a profile about you in my blog which focuses on "the best of the best" of jewelry designers, teachers and suppliers. If you are interested, I send questions via email and publish your responses.'
Her profile on published on the June 23 post at http://fortheloveofjewels.blogspot.com/2008/06/marion-hunziker-larsen-jewels-in-fiber.html

Colors

2008-06-12T17:05:00.000-07:00

When do we have enough colors? As an artist, designer and artisan working primarily with Nylon #18/C-Lon Bead Cord type thread, I struggled for many years with a limited color range, unreliable supplies, a lack of quality control, companies going out of business... All of this was of course before to C-Lon got into the thread business.

C-Lon has now 64 colors, Mastex 22 colors, Conso 14, Beadsmith 17 (Beadsmith may no longer produce their Nylon #18, every time I reorder a few more colors have been discontinued). In addition I also use vintage cords, colors produced in the past by companies no longer in business, discontinued colors and old dye lots. Vintage cord is difficult to come by to newcomers in this field. So essentially most of us have about 100 colors to work with if we are willing to mix brands. Is that enough?

While pondering on this question, I decided to take a look at artist colored pencils. I easily found 9 artist quality brand with sets ranging from 12 to 132 colors. All the sets come in numbers such as 12, 24, 36, 49, 72, 96, 120 and 132 (Prismacolor only). In all the sets the colors are arranged chromatically using different logical systems. Keep in mind that color pencils can be layered, thread can only be juxtaposed. Then I looked at the Madeira Rayon thread used for machine embroidery and they boast 356 colors...

... Back to the nylons: Conso has not changed or added colors for 25 years. Mastex has reduced its color range. Oh, I forgot a sub-brand, S-Lon, well it's just a fact simile or exact duplicate of C-Lon in 51 colors. So we can forget about that brand as an option for additional colors. C-Lon is the only company that may be willing to expand their offering. So the main question remains:

Are 64 colors enough? Or do you still dream of more colors...

Grateful to have 64 colors! ~ Marion

Post your feedback on this question...

Added on January 9, 2009: 2008 saw the shrinking of company offering Nylon #18 with Mastex going out of business :(. I am always sorry to see our choices shrinking. On a positive notes C-Lon decided to expand their colors. I was asked to advise as to possible new colors. As of a week ago 8 new colors are on order at the factory expected to be released toward the end of February. So 64 is growing to 72. Hurrah!

New Heavyweight C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord

2008-06-12T17:00:00.000-07:00

Did you get the new heavyweight C-Lon Tex 400 Bead Cord? What's you opinion on this new thread?

Post your comments on this thread, send pictures of pieces you have done with it...

It is available in 16 colors for now.

Update - This cord is now available in 24 colors and I have since had the chance to use it for a square knot bracelet I taught for an enrichment class to 4th-8th graders. The resulting bracelets made or attenpted were great for some and not so great for others, but bear in mind that for most of the students in this class, it was their first introduction to square knotting!
I will do a new blog entry as soon as I get the chance.

Book Reviews

2008-04-20T16:22:00.000-07:00

I often get asked for book recommendations. Occasionally I write a book review. In February or March I wrote about Marie Le Sueur's book on micro macrame (posted in the news section on the online jewels in fiber store).

One of my website visitor wrote me upset about her purchase based on my recommendation, feeling she had wasted $45.00. I offered to trade with her. Several days later I got her copy, she got a package of supplies as trade, and one of my student asked me about books, saw it and took it off my hand, really happy not to have to order it. So problem solved, right...

Others have emailed me pictures of pieces they have made based on the book. Here is a copy of an email I got:

Marie le Sueur’s book Micro-macrame de la dentelle aux bijoux is beautifully illustrated with step-by-step instructions that inspired me to create a piece in her style immediately. I do not speak or read French but found most of the directions easy to follow because of the detailed, clear illustrations. My husband did translate a few steps that were confusing at first glance, but I think that with some trial and error even those would have worked out fine.

I did not follow any one project exactly because I have not been able to locate a source for the findings or crystal settings that she uses. But it is very easy to adapt the techniques to the stones and beads on hand. Notice on my bracelet that the end is longer than the ribbon end crimp but I could not find a longer one and wanted to wear it immediately so I used what was available. In the future I’ll use Marion’s techniques for starting and ending to avoid this problem or make my own findings; as I plan to do for this piece. Even with the not so perfect end, compliments are plentiful when it is worn! ~ Fran/Ohio

Feedjit Map

2008-04-20T16:13:00.000-07:00

A Feedjit map was added to this blog and my websites. See it in the left column. It shows a world map and tracks the latest visitors on a map by red dots and if you click on the map, it will take you to larger map with little flags for the towns where the visitors are from and it shows the pages they visited. It adds a cookie to your visit to my sites, but the sites will function even if you refuse the cookies from Feedjit. The info they collect is general enough not be intrusive to your privacy. I find it fun as it illustrates the global reach of the internet. Please post your thoughts about the map!

A Special Order

2008-04-10T11:01:00.001-07:00

Occasionally I get a special order. A customer requests a piece for a special occasion or a specific dress...

In this instance, a very special customer needed jewelry for a Bar Mitzvah. She had found the dress, and we designed together this dramatic set for her special event.
Imagine this piece worn by a tall statuesque blond, in a long black dress with a very low back decolleté (and she speaks French as she is Parisian).

We also wanted this neckpiece to be wearable beyond this one occasion, thus the removable back tassel... making this piece more casual. The idea was to wear it in winter with a turtle neck sweater and black pants, and in summer with a dress or a light suit. The bracelet shown below completes this jewelry set.

Neckpiece and Earrings. Braided and knotted nylon thread, satin cord as the core for the braid, dyed coral and black onyx rings and toggles. Designed, handmade and © 2007 by Marion Hunziker-Larsen

Photography by George Post © 2008

The Bracelet

2008-04-10T10:57:00.001-07:00

Bracelet (shown framed with the neckpiece braid). Knotted nylon thread, dyed coral, black onyx rings and toggle.

New Blog!

2008-04-09T01:10:00.000-07:00

marion jewels in fiber has an official blog!!! It is just in its infancy... as I just set it up tonight. We will see how it evolves, tonight I posted some pictures, landscapes/cityscape mostly in a slide format from my trip to New England. I am waiting for additional pictures from the Lexington workshop before another posting regarding the workshop... More to come soon.

Rescheduling...

2008-04-08T23:51:00.000-07:00

Somedays are meant to be rescheduled. Tuesday, I started out the day with the best laid plans. Work on Cabochon projects... Then a friend of mine calls me with news of a common friend in the hospital awaiting major surgery. We decide to go do some Reiki work in person (hands-on healing), so everything else got put aside, for a little while.

I reflect later on on how lucky I am to have a flexible schedule!
My Wednesday morning, for example, are dedicated to a yoga group practice, but by now most of the group is also doing Reiki, so it is intermingled at times during the meditation with yoga.

Namaste, ~ Marion (I started yoga 22 years ago as a restorative practice)

On the Road to New England

2008-04-08T21:32:00.000-07:00

Occasionally I leave my studio and go on a trip to show work or to teach.

After a number of emails with the workshop coordinator of Bead Designer International/Bead Society of New England, we were ready with a clear curriculum, manuals to be printed, bead kits to prepare and bags to be packed, supplies to be ordered and shipped to the workshop location and most importantly students signed up. In the meantime I had forgotten about Spring Break, taking time away from work, so of course I scrambled to prepare all the bead and pre-cut thread kits. Then I was off in the plane with 90 pounds of supplies and 8 pounds of personal stuff and a heavy carry-on. 5 boxes had already been shipped from various locations.

The trip to New England went amazingly well. The lecture about my personal journey as an artist went well, I believe. Public speaking used to make me very nervous. But several years ago, I decided that speaking about my work should be easy as no one else knew the subject better than I. Yoga centering and grounding techniques have been a great help as well...

A side trip by train took me to Portland, Maine, just in time for a last Spring snow fall. Downtown was deserted as everyone there was so sick of snow, but I had a great time waking around until my return back to the Boston area.

Back in the Boston area, the BDI coordinator took me on a short visit of Concord, MA. We spent some time walking around the Concord Greens with the Old North Bridge and the Minute Man sculpture memorialized by Emerson's words 'the shot heard around the world'. As a fairly new citizen of this land, I got touched by being there at the very spot were the revolution began more than 200 years ago. As we were ready to leave, after being the only visitors during our visit so far, a Minute Man in full regalia materialized for us (his umbrella gave him away).

We went to warm up at the Concord Library. What a spot, a jewel. It is about 200 years old, a grand place to spent time, and still a public library. If I lived in this area I would hang there... As we walked around: a young kid was sitting in an alcove in the stairs reading Star Wars, what a contrast!

Then out for diner at the old Colonial Inn, and the Minute Man was already sitting at the next table...

In the meantime, I understand better the colors of New England in winter or early spring. The land is buff, the tree truck gray bare of leaves, with a few dark green pine here and there. The sky is either grey or a gorgeous blue when the skies are clear. The shadows are completely different than the shadows in California or Europe... Back in California, the land is quite green right now in early spring, whereas it will be buff in summer when all the grasses dry off, and the shadows have a hint of purple here. The earth is really a beautiful precious jewel.